Category Archives: Travel

Flashback to Puerto Rico: August 15-16, 2005

This is the 6th Part in the Honeymoon Flashback Series. I would like to finish sharing this whole journal that we wrote on our honeymoon in 2005 before we leave to start our new Puerto Rico life adventure this fall 2013. Go here for Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4 and Part 5.

The Vortex of Ponce

Well, we left Parguera and headed to Ponce. We stopped for more super healthy groceries (beer, cookies, nuts) and for some fast food because we were having a hard time picking somewhere good to eat. Because Britton was driving, he had to order in the drive thru…in Spanish. I tried to help him, but it was hard to transfer the information across the car all mumbled through the speaker, so we ended up having to drive up to the window and talk face to face. When we tried to leave, we apparently went the wrong way because a policeman drove up and told us to turn around. This was the first of many police stops this day.

Dryland Forest
Puerto Rican Dryland Forest with cacti and everything!

Britton was a little shook up, but we managed our way out. We took a long detour and saw the desert part of the island and drove around where we could almost see Gilligan’s Island that I thought had a pretty cool name. It is just a small island about 100 meters off from Guanica.

Then we drove into Ponce, the Pearl of the South. It is probably the biggest city in south Puerto Rico. We got a little lost trying to find downtown, but once there, it was as if it had a vortex that sucked us in and we couldn’t get out.

Parque de Bombas

We saw the Parque de Bombas, the awesome old red and black firehouse. We also saw the old church and we drove all the way up the hill to the mansion and cross that overlooks the whole city and you can see all the way to the ocean!

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The streets were all under construction so when we decided to leave downtown when it got dark, we got really turned around and didn’t know north from south. There were no mountains like in Colorado to guide us east or west. We drove around for a while and since it was getting dark we again decided to see a movie. When all you have is free time on vacation you realize how much time you actually have to spend! We were finally able to get in and see the movie, the Island! It was a little hard to find the theatre too, but we managed and it was a fun movie.

After the movie, it was late but not as late as the other night, so we started to look for a good place to sleep. We left the theatre but somehow ended up in the vortex that took us right back downtown by the firehouse. By now it was 12:30am and there was construction on almost all of the streets and a ton of one-ways or TRANSITOS. We would try to go one way, but either the construction blocked it or the one-ways prevented it. We accidently ended up going the wrong way down the TRANSITO and got pulled over by the police now for the second time this day.

The policemen were nice and understanding giving us tourist free-passes I think. But they didn’t speak very good English and so I at first tried to help Britton by speaking across him in the car. But the policeman insisted in trying to speak English and so I stopped trying. He didn’t know the difference or words in English between his right and left so when we tried to leave and follow his directions out we ended up RIGHT BACK in downtown Ponce!

The vortex had swirled on us again! Britton thought he was going south when we were actually going north. It got a little tense in the car. We were tired, hungry, nervous from being pulled over and utterly lost. So we were more than ready to escape Ponce! Britton tried to leave and again went down a road against traffic on a one-way, and was AGAIN pulled over by the police! The police are, to say the very least, friendly and forgiving and didn’t give us ticket for any of these mistakes. The other confusing thing about being pulled over was that we didn’t even know if we were being pulled over because they drive around with their lights on at all times!

Finally after sticking to the cardinal rule when lost of going in one direction (as much as we could with all the one ways and closed roads due to construction) we were able to get out of the vortex. We were so tired we just parked up on the side of a jungle mountain road. It was much easier to sleep with the coquis instead of the dogs barking, although it was a bit creepier and dark.

This morning we got up -and lost- again trying to find breakfast. We finally got turned around and visited Tibes Ceremonial Indian Center. It was nice to learn about the original indigenous people from the island.

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Re-created Taino style huts at the ceremonial village

Then we drove up to where we are now: the Coamo thermal springs. We are tired and we’ve just returned from a dip in the natural hot spring pool and are hanging out in the room watching Puerto Rican MTV.

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At the Coamo Hot Springs

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4th of July in the U.S. of A

Yesterday Britton and I both had the day off for the fourth of July. We really didn’t have any plans so we invited my mom and her partner over to BBQ with us. We decided to have a little fun and participate in some of the traditional American aspects of the 4th of July: beer, BBQ and blowing crap up (fireworks) :-).

Sometimes I forget that not everywhere (not even everywhere in the US) does things the same as in Greeley, Colorado. Some places don’t have drive-thru liquor stores, car lots aren’t closed on Sunday for religious holdover reasons and water rights aren’t more important than just about anything else. In some places you don’t see people drive humongous diesel trucks, work on a farms or oil rigs, wear cowboy hats and spit brown tobacco. Or you don’t still see manual laborers pulling onions from the ground or corn fields that come autumn turn into beautiful huge mazes (or maizes as they wittily call them).

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Long horns in the Greeley Stampede parade

In other places, you might not see people jogging around town running in place (the men usually shirtless) while they wait at stoplights in order to continue their exercise momentum. You might not see the huge exodus of cars as they drive up into the mountains on holiday weekends for a hike and picnic. In some places, “Red Rocks” means next to nothing while here it is always the answer to “Where is the best concert venue?” In some places the carnival and rodeo and huge parade don’t come around every 4th of July and the big Black Cat firecracker tents don’t pop up like weeds all along the front range.

Fireworks Tent
Fireworks tents spring up everywhere this time of year even though most of what they sell is illegal to ignite

But right here, in this place and time, these are all things we just take as part and parcel of this American life in the no-longer-too-Wild West of the high plains/front range of Colorado.

We often don’t think about culture as being the culture in which we grew up, but it is there hidden in plain sight, right in front of our eyes. We don’t see it until we have the contrast of other cultures, norms, and rules.

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Yes, that is a confederate flag…

We sometimes think of culture as something other people have, or of subcultures of the mainstream. What this implies is that it feels normal. Because there is no contrast or challenge to the main culture, one is not able to see oneself. Normal often means invisible to ourselves. This is one of the reasons I love travel and cultural immersions. Through meeting people and visiting their lands, you actually start to see yourself and your roots more clearly.

I realize that it will be a little bittersweet to leave this comfortable life and culture we have always known. It is so very easy to fit right in with the place you were born and not give it a second thought, especially if you can identify with the majority. But ease and comfort doesn’t usually help you grow as a person. And so it is partly for that reason that we are moving on to new, wider experiences in life.

But for this day, this emblematic day of America, we appreciated our hometown 4th of July, Independence Day, in the ol’ U.S. of A by doing a few things we love to do on a hot summer, mid-west American day.

We took a walk in our favorite park, Glenmere.

Glenmere Where’s Cassie? I love this little cove Hobbit-house in Glenmere Park

We picked up some beer, and put some brats on the grill. We listened to music and as the sun set, the whole neighborhood came alive and glowing with people setting off all the firecrackers they had bought from the ubiquitous tents. As the night became even darker and cooler, we sat on our front porch and lit our small $5 supply of sparklers and jumping jacks and watched the big and beautiful fireworks show put on by the Stampede as we have done almost every year we’ve lived here. We enjoyed the finale to a wonderfully American day.

Sparklers and Beer
Watermelon, sparklers and American beer -Happy 4th of July

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Flashback to Puerto Rico: August 12-14, 2005

This is the 5th Part in the Honeymoon Flashback Series. I would like to finish sharing this whole journal that we wrote on our honeymoon in 2005 before we leave to start our new Puerto Rico life adventure this fall 2013. Go here for Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, and Part 4.

The Mofongo/Mango Mishap and Great Hunt for Chili’s

Friday we decided to stay another night in Rincon; we took a long walk down the beach barefoot and ran into some rocks that we had to walk up or swim around. It was fun, but with Britton’s sunburn he was a little sore and had to wear a shirt. After a nap we went up to a surfer bar called Calypso. It was somewhat expensive but fun -a lot of gringos apparently have bought in Rincon -some surfers, some investors, some snow birds, some retirees.


Rincon Sunset
Beautiful Sunsets in Rincon!

We slept in late Saturday and checked out of Coconut Palms -we decided since had slept so late that we would make a late night out of Saturday. We drove into Mayaguez, one of the bigger cities on this west side. We looked in a tourist magazine and saw that there was a Chili’s restaurant and since we had received a Chili’s gift card as a wedding gift, we drove around and around and around looking for that darn Chili’s!

We got caught in a huge rainstorm as we were looking. The rain looked like it was peeing from the buildings, people were putting whatever they could on their heads from boxes to plastic bags and the begging people in the middle of the street ran for shelter.

Since it was raining so bad we couldn’t find Chili’s and instead decided to go see a movie. I wanted to see The Island (since we were on an island) but it didn’t start until later so we saw Deuce Bigalow European Gigalow with Spanish subtitles which was more interesting than the movie itself.

We left and kept an eye out for Chili’s and tried to stop for gas at a gas station. I had started to feel really sick to my stomach. Maybe it was the mofongos we had eaten or maybe a mango from an Econo grocery store, but the navigator (me) was out of commission. I didn’t know whether I had nausea, diarrhea or just a weird hunger, but I felt horrible.

We continued on with me just sitting miserably in the passenger seat and Britton went to another gas station because the previous gas station had been flooded with water. At the new gas station I told Britton I had to use the bathroom one way or another or both.

So I very sickly got out of the car and looked inside the station. I asked in Spanish for the bathroom but the guy behind the glass just strangely looked at me. So I went back to the car and before we could drive away I opened the door and puked it all out -mangos, mofongos and all.

I felt a little better but I knew it wasn’t over. So we went to a nearby Baskin-Robbins and shared a banana split and I spent some time in the bathroom.

The kids that worked in Baskin Robbins said Chili’s was at a mall by Wendy’s and Church’s Chicken, but by then we were so spent driving around in circles that we just left Mayaguez and drove on to Cabo Rojo. We took a country dirt road around to an old water tower. We saw a little birthday party in progress. Since we never did find Chili’s we just stopped at a Little Caesar’s pizza place. They have no sales taxes here which is pretty cool. (Editor’s note: PR instituted a sales tax not long after we visited in 2005.)

We decided to drive back to Mayaguez and found the mall AND Chili’s! The mall, apparentely, is the place to be on a Saturday night. Everyone was out and they had some cool stores too. But it was closing so we decided to see a late movie -again! Wedding Crashers at 12:10am. It got out at 2am so we drove off to some neighborhood and just slept in the car. Well, it saved us at least $75-$100 in hotel costs! The first place we parked to sleep we were busted by a security guard, but then we found a nice quiet neighborhood. It was pretty fun as we settled in to our dreams to sounds of chirping frogs and insects.

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Deserted Beach somewhere in western PR (photo taken from top of car)

We woke up at about 6am to rooster crows and dogs barking. And so we drove down to a deserted beach. I don’t know how we found this beach but we slept some more and then went for a swim. The water was so clear. After a while we got moving and found ourselves at the Salt Bay -Bahia Salinas- and another dirt road that led to a beach right by the Cabo Rojo Lighthouse/Faro. It was really cool -we swam again for about an hour and we checked out the huge pile of salt that Morton’s Salt Co collects.

 100_1864100_1866One of the most beautiful beaches and water we saw near a salt collection site

 

We then drove to Parguera where we are now. The dock area was really neat and we ate Pinchos which are meat kabobs with bread on the end and a really good Pina Colada. We are now at a little guest house where we actually had to wake up the owner (in the middle of the day) to get a room. Well, we are up to date now. Tomorrow off to Ponce and the south of Puerto Rico.

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The Struggle to Live an Authentic Life

 

Existentialism

I saw this passage written in the back blank pages of a book I was reading (La Casa de los Espiritus). In English it says: We human beings are always in a constant coming and going in the incessant search for happiness and at the end we realize it was just an illusion that hooked us all in order to survive, to pass the time while death arrives. I found it to be remarkably succinct in its existential revelation. And isn’t that ultimately how life is? So why do we try to pretend and cover and deny death?

I also recently read David Foster Wallace’s classic footnote ridden1essay A Supposedly Fun Thing I’ll Never Do Again about his experience on one of the huge luxury cruise ships that sail the Caribbean. While it was very long and drawn out, I found that it captured some of what I have been trying to put into words about the “American Way of Life” that often bothers me, but that I just couldn’t quite pin down and describe.

But I think I have finally boiled it down. It is inauthenticity. It is this pretend world that we live in to deny that we are alive, living beings, and therefore will die. I would argue that for the modern person today, much of our life is inauthentic. In fact, I would go so far as to say it is straight up fake, fabricated, faux, phony. And it is sold to us in neat little packages with great commercial slogans and brands and logos. Our perceptions are marketed and we are told how we are supposed to feel, think and even respond. In the mainstream, we are given choices only in so much of this thing to buy, or that thing to buy.

I think this deep-seated sense of feeling like a number or just one of many “sheeple”, this inauthenticity, is what I feel, but didn’t have words for. This occurs in so many experiences of modern life. Like the time-share spiels where the whole purpose is the sale, and you are the prey. Or Las Vegas, the epitome of fake where a luxurious verdant oasis sprang up from a dead desert-land and where you are herded like cows from one casino to another in a drunken-money sucking haze. Or Disneyland. Or most recent McMansion subdivisions. Or Hollywood Blockbusters blow-em-ups/chick flicks with sneaky in-film product placements. Or how about current mass-produced made-in-China plastic molded toys. Or most pop songs made in a lab with focus groups. Or in mass-produced food-like products, things like Doritos Locos Tacos whose unholy alliance of two multi-billion dollar subsidized “food” companies only points out this unsaid, stifled chuckle of bamboozling the average “consumer” with their chemical crap. And of course, while I have never been on one, I am sure this feeling is most pervasive on most megalines cruise ships. Basically, what I am saying is that in modern American life, this is EVERYWHERE.

Because it is everywhere, it is all the way from the wealthy subculture, the middle class to the so-called “low-brow” and people in poverty. When it comes to selling us an inauthentic life, it is everywhere! And on the rare occasion in this American (or really most industrialized and industrializing countries) life when we do find a truly raw, genuine, authentic experience, it is often taken and wrapped up and resold in shiny, tight cellophane with a barcode and a price tag. Or at the very least, it comes with an advertisement. Cases in point: YouTube who started out raw and real with people just uploading their videos and is now a huge powerhouse of advertisements, the Doors’ unique “Light My Fire” song becoming a Buick ad and really anything of the “counterculture” now has became the mainstream culture. I think this is what we call “selling out”.

Of course, even in all of this fake, false plastic world of airbrushing and air-conditioned gyms there is something real, or authenic to be found. Underneath it all, there is the true story, the story that the sleek ads and fake smiles and shockingly sweet bubbly drinks hide with their chemical preservatives and coats of paint. There are the stories of the people that work in these fake wonderlands of Vegas and Disney and Carnival. There are the photoshop artists behind the ads. There’s the mad food scientist who can make a can of Coke stay shelf-stable for decades.

On my first trip out of the country, my mom took me to Cancun, Mexico to celebrate my graduation from high school and turning 18. We stayed at a resort called Solymar, where the words all run together,or the English equivilent of “Sunandsea”. Anyhow, it was beautiful. We were right on the white-sand beach. The sea gleamed a bright turquoise color, the sun shined its golden gild onto me and we enjoyed the relaxation that a week in the tropics always and forever whence would bring to me.

But most of it was fake. Cancun was not built under normal conditions. It was not a city built by and for its people. It sole purpose was/is a tourist playground. The small sleepy fisherman village had transformed in just a few years into a mega high-rise, MTV-spring-break party town leaving the few remaining locals feeling voiceless and pushed out by the influx of foreign Europeans and North American tourists and corporate money.  The fishermen could no longer fish. The locals could no longer even visit their own beaches without the plastic neon bracelets that denoted “tourist”. Only in furtive glances out the hotel bedrooms while cleaning guest rooms or skimming the skum from the pools did the locals-turned-hotel-staff remember that this used to be their quiet beach hideaway.

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My new friend in Cancun

I learned most of this talking to a “towel boy” at the pool. He was about my age at the time, or around 18. At that time, my Spanish wasn’t very good and his English wasn’t either, but we managed to communicate, because communication is mainly about the desire to be understood. He invited me out to see a movie, but I wanted to learn more about him and his life, not just see some canned American-movie when I was in Mexico for the first time ever.

Together we walked around the less-touristy part of the city and he introduced me to his brother, his sister-in-law and their baby. The four of them lived in an unpainted cement square box or what we could call euphemistically a “studio apartment” about 15×15 feet in size. It was in a clump of about four other similar boxes and the four box-rooms all shared one single toilet and shower. Inside the “studio” there was one double-sized bed and a small kitchenette. I asked where everyone slept. He said the brother and his wife and baby slept in the bed and he hooked up a hammock and slept in that. Though they had very little, they generously shared a meal with me and told me the story of Cancun and their contract to work at the resort and the little measly amount of money (about $10/week and the room) they were paid to work there. It made me feel even better that we hadn’t seen a movie as that would have cost them nearly a week’s pay just for two hours of entertainment.

I still often think of that family struggling to make it in the hot Yucatan tourist trap of Cancun. It made an impact on me because it was under the surface. It was the deeper, hidden part of the shiny brochures inviting the spoiled tourist to “relax, and feel pampered…because you deserve it”. It was the authentic hidden beneath the fake. It was this juxaposition and interplay of the struggle of this small family and the smug, rich, mostly oblivious tourist industry. I had inadvertently peeled off the filmy, flimsy layer of pretty fakeness that covers the sometimes ugly truth. And I loved it. I felt alive and not sold to. I knew, I still know! deep down that I wanted to live an authentic life, choosing and creating as I went along.

And so what do I do with this knowledge of my desire to live an authentic life, a life as close to the real thing as possible (even as Coca Cola tries to steal that from us in its ironic slogan)? I think this undercurrent pull of authenticity is what drives a large part of my life. I love to garden and eat straight from the source, whether that is one of my chicken’s eggs or a peach from my tree in the front yard. I love this authentic feeling of eating straight from the true source so much that we now have four acres of tropical jungle in Puerto Rico to do this very thing! I love meeting and really knowing and helping people, speaking languages and learning about new cultures. I love to listen to raw from-the-heart music. I love to watch indie movies. I love locally-owned small businesses and hand-made products. I read books. I love to be financially independent and not “owned” by someone else.

And in those unavoidable instances of “fauxness” I try and uncover the rawness, the realness that is still there, but obscured by labels and marketing gimmicks, by enhancements and additives. And I try to see through the fads that start out as real and turn fake like organic grains turned BHT-packaged cereal sold in Wal-Mart or indie artists turned corporate brands.

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This is authentic!

It is hard to see through all the fakeness. Sometimes it seems so real as to be convincing. But usually deep down, I can feel a tug that says this just doesn’t feel like the genuine article. Someone is trying too hard. This isn’t a “real” party or get-together, this is someone trying to sell me something or convince me, or convert me. This isn’t a “real” movie, this is an advertisement disguised as a movie. This isn’t a “real” song, it’s a product jingle. And at the same time, I try and see the good, the real, the humanity and vulnerability underneath even these suspiciously fake moments. I try to enjoy the whole experience of life even if it looks on the surface very artificial. I will try nearly anything once, and usually I can find something that I like about it.

Because after living very long in this fake world, we have probably all been fake at some point. We have tried to be someone we aren’t. We have tried to sell someone on something we really didn’t believe in. We have acted out of character. We have tried to ignore the fakeness or even sort of enjoy it. But underneath it all, we are authenic. We are genuine. We are real. The struggle is staying true to who you really are, deep down in a world that says that fake, pretend-land is better than the real, real thing.

1No, seriously they are some very long and involved footnotes.

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