Category Archives: Travel

Day Trip to Isabela Puerto Rico

Yesterday was our wedding anniversary (9 years!) and so we decided to take a day trip to Isabela, Puerto Rico. Isabela is just around the northwestern corner of the island and not too far of a drive for us from Rincón.

We planned our trip to hit on a few sights around town. We didn’t know exactly where we were going, so we made our way first to the town plaza. If you ever go to a city in Puerto Rico, go to the plaza first as this will orient you to the rest of the area. We had a light snack and then headed out to Jobos (pronounced Hobos) Beach.

Splash
Jobos makes a splash!

We had never been to Jobos before, but it was pretty cool. There is a long stretch of beach that had waves – even in the flat summer- and many surfers hanging out. We found ourselves in an area of Jobos that looked to have been at one point in the earth’s history the bottom of the ocean with petrified coral stone.

It was here that we found the Pozo de Jacinto. According to local lore, Jacinto’s cow fell into this hole (pozo means well) and dragged poor Jacinto with him. Now there is a legend that you can call to Jacinto and the well will burst up with a splash through the hole.

BK and Pozo de Jacinto small
Britton calling for Jacinto and his cow

On our way to dinner, we found this cool Taino Indian face that is sculpted into the mountain right before Highway 2.

Taino Indian Head Cassie
Taino Head

The finale to our Isabela trip was dinner and a walk around the acreage of Royal Isabela.  We had heard great things about this place from a few people and so we thought that would make for a romantic anniversary dinner. It is a little hard to spot as you drive on the 113 in Isabela, but once you do, you will enter into a beautifully landscaped private golf course/restaurant/hotel. When they opened the private gates to our beat up old Dodge truck we sort of felt like the Beverly Hillbillies, but they still let us in.

Royal Isabela
La Casa at Royal Isabela

It was pretty quiet there with only a few other guests. We walked around and admired the architecture, view and plants while enjoying a nice mojito prior to dinner. At dinner we were both quite impressed with the taste, presentation and quality of the food.

Food and evening
A fancy meal at sunset

We had a great day out in Isabela and it was a fantastic way to spend an anniversary.

Cute couple small

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Trip to Desecheo Island

For my birthday, I wanted to do something special. We don’t do a whole lot of gifts, but I do like to have special experiences. Desecheo was top of my list of explorations since moving to Puerto Rico.

Desecheo  is a small deserted island about 12-13 miles west of Rincón. It had once been a bombing range, like many of the uninhabitated islands that comprise Puerto Rico, but has since become a nature reserve. The Spanish verb “desechar” means to cast or throw out, so I imagine Desecheo as “Castaway Island.”

Desecheo island
Approaching Desecheo by boat

We have always been curious about Desecheo since it is the only landmass looking west from Rincón that one can see. The sun always sets near it to the left or right and it seemed to call to us to explore it. So we figured my birthday would be the best occasion to go out there and see it in a snorkeling adventure.

We booked our snorkeling tour with Taino Divers. There is no actual docking marina for boats in Rincón and so one person had to swim to the boat and bring it up to the beach where all of us tourists had to help load the boat with the dive materials. The boat ride was fairly slow but fun. It took us about 45 minutes to reach the island.

Birthday kiss
Britton giving me a  birthday kiss on the way out

Once we arrived we noticed two police boats and a helicopter chopping around the sky over the island. We learned that there were Dominican refugees on the island trying to illegally immigrate to Puerto Rico, but had only gotten as far as Desecheo. And while technically it is Puerto Rico, Desecheo is completely uninhabited and has no fresh water sources or even coconuts to survive on!

Other side of desecheo
While the west side of Desecheo is more verdant, it is still very desolate

Talk about castaway! They were stranded there and stuck in a survival situation. The police were just waiting them out until they were ready to give up and be deported. It was quite interesting and sad to think of the risk these people were in, searching for a better life. No yola had arrived for them to crash upon the beaches of Rincón. They were stranded and we were right in the middle of it, snorkeling the troubled waters. The guys at Taino said that they had seen it before with Haitians or Domincans on the island. All they wanted was water. They tried to help, but were prohibited from doing much. Many of the runs for the border turn into rescue missions.

Police boat
Police Boat talking with Taino Divers about the Domincans

Once it had been determined that the situation was stable, we were given the ok to go ahead and jump out and snorkel, but we were warned not to go onto dry land.

The snorkeling was fantastic! The visibility was about 40-50 feet down, though our little disposable water camera didn’t capture it very well. There were a couple of SCUBA divers as well and they said it was world-class. I swam with a sea turtle dashiing right between my fingers. Britton said I was down holding my breath so long that he was beginning to worry, but I was so caught up and mesmerized with the turtle. Fortunately, I have always been able to hold  my breath about 2 minutes and so I was fine.

Sea Turtle crop
Reaching for the turtle

We also saw some very healthy coral reefs and tons of fish. Crumbling some potato chips into the water brought up a lot of fish like these yellow fin snappers.

Yellowfin snapper
Yellow fin snappers

Britton SnorkelCassie Snorkel Monkey

Even though we got a little sea sick (me more than Britton), we had a great time on this day trip. If there is any criticism about it, I would say it was a bit expensive especially because they add a $20 per person “tax” to visit the island that is not included on their website. They also cut the trip shorter than advertised. We were supposed to return around 2pm, but we were done and driving home by 1pm. They also had no set “lunch” time and so very few people ate any of the pasta salad lunch that was included in the fee.

But overall the snorkeling was fantastic, the crew was knowledgeable and friendly and the Dominican situation added a striking reminder of our geo-political place in the world.

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May Means Mango

It has been mango madness at our house for the last two weeks or so. It started somewhat slowly with only one or two mangos falling on our roof but the beat has slowly progressed and is still rising to a crescendo. Living in this little cabana when the mangos fall is like living inside of a drum with the roof of the house as the drum head. Boom, boom, bada bada the mangos keep falling from the sky.

Mango tree above cabana
Huge mango tree above the cabana

The mango tree is nice though because it keeps the cabana nice and cool. And who can complain, really, about free, delicious food falling down for you to eat!?

Box o mango

Some of the mangos are over-ripe or have bugs in them, so they go to the chickens. But many of them are beautiful and large mangos. We need to start finding more mango recipes because we just have SOOO many.

Nice mango

Not only do we have this large “common mango” but we think we have some other varieties that are just now blooming. We will see what kind they are soon. I actually really like the so-called common mango. Some people think they have too much fiber, but if you eat them at just their peak of ripeness they taste perfect to me!

In Rincón, May means mango in another way as well. It means man-go. The town has just cleared out of tourists. The roads are clear and easy to drive and the restaurants and shops are less crowded. It also means that many of the shops that cater to tourists are shutting down for the summer season. Some tourist-serving entities will wait out Man-go (people leaving) May and wait for the smaller wave of San Juaneros and other Puerto Rican tourists that come to the west on summer break.

I’ve never lived in a tourist-oriented town before, so this fluctuation of people has been an interesting aspect of living here. It makes getting to know people a little more difficult because you don’t know who will be around in a month or two. You quickly learn a person’s level of connection to the area. They may be cyclical like snow birds who stay all winter but leave around the end of March or April to return to where they really call “home” or they might be intermittent vacationers who have a place here but don’t stay for very long stretches at a time. Or they might simply be tourists or travelers or people with wanderlust who may be thinking about living here but are checking out other options.

There are year-rounders like us and most of the Puerto Rican population  in town and there are people who hope to be year-rounders but aren’t sure they can make it through this lull in people if they are dependent on tourists for income.  It has been a little hard to adjust to this varying flow of people because we have met some really cool people that we would really like to get to know better and spend more time with, but then they leave!

We are starting to see that everything here has a season in a different way than we experienced the seasons in Colorado. While there is no distinct change like snow or wind gusts and crispness to the air as there was in Colorado, there are seasons. Right now we are in the mango season and I think I kind of like it. Our town has become a quieter more intimate place. The permanent residents all have a sort of familiarity with each other. We all know and understand the excitement of the tourist season, but we can also sit back and take a deep breath during the time of the mango descent down mango alley and await the flamboyán trees fantastic show of colors. There is a calmness on the waters and in the town as the tourist frenzy cools and the air heats up. The rains have begun and things are turning green again. There is a change, though ever so slight. May means mango and that there is a new season underway.

Food from yardFood from the yard this morning -mangos,starfruit, passionfruit, coconut/water and popcorn

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Adventure at Río Tanamá in a VW Bus

Our friend and neighbor Anthony invited us to join him in an adventure trip up to the Tanama River near Utuado in the middle of the island. He is a student at the Universidad de Puerto Rico en Mayaguez and he had off the week for spring break/Semana Santa (Holy Week) and thought this Friday would be a good day to head up there. He had the perfect vehicle for such an adventure: an old 70’s VW Bus decked out in all sorts of stickers and paintings including Taino and Puerto Rico symbols. When we saw it, we knew we were in for an adventure, but we had no idea how adventurous it would later become!

VW
Load up! 🙂

It was Good Friday (Viernes Santo) and there was very little traffic on the road. We wanted to pick up some supplies on our way up there, but many stores were closed. We stopped in Walgreens which was open, but they restricted the purchase of roughly half the items in the store. It was sort of bizarre which items could be purchased and which couldn’t. I tried to decipher the pattern, but it seemed pretty arbitrary. The whole laundry detergent aisle was off-limts, but not the makeup. While we were hoping for a 12 pack of beer (yes, they normally sell beer, wine and even hard liquor at Walgreens -quite different from Colorado!), we managed to at least get 3 small tubes for floating in the river.

Ley de Cierre Britton in Walgreens

We stopped off at a local panaderia for a sandwich and at a grocery store for beer and ice (they apparently didn’t get the same memo as Walgreens) and were on our way! The drive was beautiful and the air became a little more cool as we headed higher and higher into the island’s jungly mountains.

Tall Mtns
Lush vegetation

 Anthony and Britton and the VW busAnthony and Britton

We were planning on meeting up with some of Anthony’s friends, but decided to start on the trek and meet them a little later. We found our way down to the river after having to cross from someone’s private property. At first a guy wanted to charge each of us $2 to cross his land to the river area and then he changed his mind and just let us pass.

Tanama River

It was absolutely gorgeous and was at one point in history a sacred place for the Taino Indians that lived on the island long before the Spaniards came. While we didn’t go to church or watch the processions of Good Friday I felt that we were in one of the most beautiful cathedrals of the world!

Cave Light
The river cuts a path into cave formations

cassie looking up
Wow!

We floated as best we could with the little tubes, but we found the water was so low that we could just walk through most of the river. The tubes were used more as resting devices and fashion statements!

BK Tube Top
Britton’s sexy tube

We hung out by the river for some time and enjoyed the fresh air and sounds of the river. We also found some really cool fruit laying all around the ground that looked almost like lotus flowers.

Strange Fruit
Any ideas what this could be?

Anthony C and B
Having fun down by the river

We hiked some pretty steep trails and found another cave that overlooked the river cave.

Cave

IMG_5870

It was starting to get a little dark and we thought we had better head back. We saw Anthony’s friends and they were going to be camping there, but we had planned only on a day trip.

By the time we got back to the bus, it was completely dark and we could see the stars shining over the mountain tops. We got all loaded up and started the VW back up the steep mountain side. We were putting a lot of strain on the poor VW’s low-horse power engine but it was doing pretty good. Then…we approached a long hill that had a probably 60 degree angle. We were climbing and climbing and climb…and stopped. Halfway up the road. The VW was hurting and we were practically vertical. All the loose items in the bus rolled or fell backwards. Anthony began to panic a little because if we slipped, we would be tumbling off the side of the mountain.

Mtn roadThis is part of the mountain we were trying to climb (earlier that day)

Britton and I got out of the bus and tried to calm Anthony down. Britton didn’t think we would be able to go backwards as it was so steep  the tires could start slipping on the concrete and slide down uncontrollably. And we would have to go around a huge curve. Anthony didn’t think he could ride the clutch and get it up. So we chocked the tires with rocks for a few minutes and Anthony made the call that he wanted to try going back down the hill in order to give him a running start up it.

We slowly helped him back down the road with Britton on one side and me on the other guiding him so that he would avoid the railing over the cliff. Carefully and slowly we made it to a semi-flat area in the road and Anthony got out of the bus visibly shaken and stretched out his foot that had been pressing so strongly on the brake.

We made a plan that both Britton and I would get out of the bus in order to lighten the load and then Anthony would gun it up that hill as fast at the bus would let him. I would wait at the top and Britton at the bottom in case he had to come back down. We crossed our fingers and Anthony sped up the incline and made it! We were all so relieved, but I think no one moreso than Anthony. Whew!

VW Bus in jungle
This old bus made it!

The bus was pretty quiet there for a while reflecting on the whole day. We got into the Lares area and had another sandwich break around 9pm and were thankful to have lived through another day and another adventure.

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