Category Archives: Rants and Raves

Getting My Driver’s License in Puerto Rico

Whew….Where to start??  So I had my birthday the other day….

Britton and Cassie sunset
It was great! We went out to dinner and watched a beach sunset

A few days later Cassie looked at my Colorado driver’s license and noticed it had expired on my birthday.  Bummer.  I tried to renew it online with the Colorado DMV but since it had been 10 years (or longer) I couldn’t renew it with CO.  So I started checking out other people’s blogs to see what the process was for obtaining my PR license. I found out that we probably should have done this soon after we moved here, but that it is rarely enforced, as long as you have a valid license somewhere. I read some comments and saw someone from Colorado simply had to take the medical exam and pay for stamps, show their SS card and turn in their CO license and was able to get their PR license. No tests, no old driving record or anything too difficult. Hmmm, hopefully this would be the case for me, I thought.

Cassie and I set out early (10am) for CESCO in Aguadilla.  We always fill up our water jug, grab some portable food, take care of all the animals and double check we have all the documents we need, camera, wallet.  We also stopped by the school supply store for copies of all my important documents and I picked up an English version of the Driver’s Permit Study Guide…just in case. Ok, we are all ready to go!

Driver's Permit Guide

When we got to CESCO we stopped at their information desk, and this was probably the wisest thing we could have done.  The lady at the front desk immediately noticed that my CO license was expired and told me that I would have to go through the ENTIRE process of getting a license. I thought MAYBE there would be a grace period, but nope. This meant I had to do the whole thing as if I were a brand new driver: starting with the learner’s permit and all the steps from there. Had I been there a week earlier when my license was not expired I would have only needed stamps, my social security card, proof of residency (water or electric bill with our address) and a medical exam.  The medical exam and sellos are sold next door to CESCO and cost $28. The “medical exam” was basically to just look at an eye chart and point your fingers up and down based on which direction the E pointed.

Medical Certificate
“Medical exams” for sale here

So this is where the adventure begins!!

We often compare living in PR to video games.  It can be a challenge sometimes or a cakewalk.  There are interesting characters we meet along the way, some have valuable information and some do not.  Some of the adventures we embark on have side quests as well.  They vary and you just never know what route your path will take.  The PR drivers’ license episode had a bit of everything that makes for a great adventure.

It was a good thing I grabbed that learners’ permit study guide. Yep just in case. I have learned that phrase in Spanish: por si acaso. Just like the copies of anything important (SS card, passport, birth certificate, utility bill, etc). Although not all of these were needed. We had them…just in case. It comes in handy because yes, I had to get a learner’s permit before I could get my actual license.  So it was back to being 15 years old.

It ended up that since I had to get my learner’s permit I had to take both the written and practical exam.  Since we were already in Aguadilla I figured I might as well take the written exam.  I studied for about 30 minutes (read from cover to cover) and then took the test.  There were 4 other guys in there taking the test, all of them ~16yrs old.  I was able to take the test in English which was a big help.  I scored an 80%, not bad.  They have some questions on the test that I didn’t really see the point of.  It was mentioned in the other blogs to pay attention to the fines, and this was good advice.  How much is the fine for parking in a handicapped spot?  $500.  How much for running a stop sign and potentially killing someone?  $50.

Sellos
Government “Sellos” or stamps

So with my exam passed, my medical and my stamps I was able to get the learners permit!  Everything went very smoothly and the lady at the front information desk was a HUGE HELP.  She pushed papers thru faster, she ensured I had everything and put us in order and she was super friendly. Props to Ilene! You rock. The next problem was that usually you have to wait 30 days from getting your permit until you can take the driving test….You know, so that your 16-year-old self has a chance to practice driving with your parent…  We talked to the lady in charge of scheduling the exams and convinced her that since I was an experienced driver that the 30 days was kind of silly.  She got her supervisor’s approval (this was important as you will see) and got on the list to take the test the next day. As we were leaving we saw some of our friends whose car broke down and we gave them a lift in our truck. It was pretty funny for our first drive under a learner’s permit.

Francis Greg Truck License
Just like I’m 16 again

Day 2:
Same deal.  Get up, get ready, make sure we have everything, etc.  We arrived in Aguadilla and found the exam location which is right across the street from the airport.  It is just a shack with some people standing out front.  This threw us for a loop because we figured it would have at least a sign out front.  It doesn’t.

Drivers Test place
Practical Driver’s Test Building Area in Aguadilla

You can take the test in your own car, or you can hire a driving instructor to go through the test with you and let you practice with their car.  Since the truck’s speedometer is inoperable we figured that we should use their car to avoid any possibility of problems.

I drove with the instructor for 20 minutes and she was very nice but humorously strict and controlling.  She would tell me to drive up, stop.  Put the car in reverse pull back till the sticker on the window is next to the 2nd cone, stop then turn the wheel and then go back, stop, then turn the wheel again, then go then stop.  She was trying to speak with me in broken English, Cassie was trying to interpret and I was just trying to follow her commands. We had the most frustrating time trying to work with each other and then I looked at her and said “so…you mean parallel park here?” She replied “Yes.”  Ok, then it was easy.  Trying to figure out what she expected me to do was the most difficult part of my lesson…lol. Then the instructor told Cassie to get in the front seat and told Cassie to kiss me for good luck on my test while the lady took a picture as a “recuerdo.” It was pretty funny.

Good luck driving kiss
Good luck to me!

Once I was done with the lesson and had my good luck kiss, it was time to take the test.  The examiner hopped in, we drove around the block and then he had me park the car.  I thought “Oh man, that was a cinch!”.  Maybe he was letting me off easy because I am a long time driver?  Either way, that was easy.  He got out and started to converse with Cassie and the Instructor in Spanish.  My Spanish is getting better, but not very good.  All I could make out was that he kept saying “Treinta dias”.  He was getting pretty angry and everyone was having heated conversations.  I knew this wasn’t good.

As it turns out he was saying that I only had my permit for 1 day and he wasn’t going to allow me to take the test.  We explained that we had special permission to do it, hence the appointment and form we took with us.  He was refusing.  Simply refusing to budge.  I was thinking we would have to do this all again in a month.  That would suck.

The instructor lady who did my driver’s ed  kept trying and trying.  She at one point told Cassie that we should probably leave and that things were not looking good and that we didn’t want to create enemies.  I just kept saying we would do whatever was needed to show that we had approval to do this today, we could get whatever form he needed and we weren’t trying to cause problems.  Finally we got ahold of the supervisor on the instructor’s phone (I think that was what happened?) and she of course said it was fine.  So I was a little shaken up and nervous to drive with the examiner who was clearly not happy, but I took the test and passed! Phew! We paid the instructor lady the $40 and were off to finally get my real license.

We went back to CESCO and the woman at the front desk recognized us and put our papers first in line.  We got the license! I am officially a Puerto Rican Driver! To top it all off, as I was walking back to the truck I found $2 in the CESCO parking lot. We then went to Crashboat and talked about how crazy this all was. I figured that was bonus points in the game for accomplishing the task.

Crashboat Beach
Crashboat Beach in Aguadilla

Britton and Cassie at Crashboat 1
The beach: somehow both the beginning and end of this story

Read this for Cassie’s PR license experience.

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Identity in Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico is an interesting place for many reasons. It is part of the United States. Anyone born in Puerto Rico is an American citizen. The U.S. dollar is used as currency. There are no customs or declarations or even passport required to travel from and to Puerto Rico from or to anywhere else in the U.S. as an American. However, Puerto Rico is technically not a state. It is a territory or commonwealth or in Spanish an “estado libre asociado” which is translated as a “free associated state.”  It sets Puerto Rico into a sort of limbo status between an American state and some other country. Puerto Rico is not the only one with this transitional sort of status. Others include Guam, Northern Marianas, American Samoa and our neighbor the U.S. Virgin Islands along with quite a few sparsely or non-inhabited territories all across the globe.

puertoricosat

Perhaps it is this limbo status that makes everything get just a little more complicated when it comes to identity (and definitely more confusing). Puerto Rico has its own “nation” team at the Olympics and competes as a country in beauty pageants and other world-wide events. As a resident of Puerto Rico, one can vote in the primary elections for President of the United States of America, but not in the actual elections and there is a non-voting representative in congress. Spanish is the preferred and most often used language, but English is also considered an official language. And in culture, Puerto Rico is an interesting mix of Latin American, Caribbean and U.S. customs. With the long history of colonization (from Columbus to the United States of America) it also makes it a touchy subject.

2009-Puerto-Rico
Puerto Rican money is United States money

All of this is to say that Puerto Rico is very unique when it comes to identity. And it makes it difficult to know how to refer to oneself, especially if you are a new resident of Puerto Rico who has come from a state in the United States of America.

For instance, you may use the term mainlander.

Mainlander: someone from the mainland. What does that mean? That you come from the main or major land? What is the mainland? The continental, contiguous 48 states? Yes, that would describe us, considering we came from Colorado which is practically smack dab in the middle of the country. However, some may say that it also subconsciously delegates Puerto Rico, (or Hawaii or Alaska for that matter) as lesser, inferior and not as important (main), so I do not like this term.

Continental: From the continent. Not only does this make me think of breakfast (ha!) but which continent? Puerto Rico is still in the North American continent right?

Or how about American?

American: someone from America. What America are you referring to? North America? Central America? South America? Latin America? The United States of America? Puerto Rico also belongs under America, and so it does not fit to use this word when distinguishing between Puerto Ricans and people from the states since they too are Americans. Although, in Spanish, “Americano” is the term I hear the most when Puerto Ricans refer to people like us.

United Statesean? Someone from the United States.

Not only does that sound awfully awkward, but even this would still refer to Puerto Rico even though it is not a “state.” In Spanish it sounds a little better “estadounidense”  but not much. And to further confuse things, the United States of America is not the only “United States.”  Mexico’s official country name is Los Estados Unidos Mexicanos which translates to the United States of Mexico or United Mexican States. So…technically a Mexican person is a United Statesean!

Gringo?
Gringo/gringa is a slang term. Sometimes it is used jokingly, and sometimes it is used derogatorily. It also comes bundled with skin color in addition to geography. So an African American would not generally fit the “gringo” label. It is probably the easiest way to describe someone who moves from the states, especially someone who doesn’t speak much or any Spanish, but it is probably not the most technical or PC. This term was borrowed from Mexico and now is used extensively -and absentmindedly.

Güero:
I don’t hear this one in Puerto Rico, but I heard it (güera) a lot in Mexico. It specifically refers to a blond or light skinned person. In Puerto Rico, the skin color variations don’t seem to carry as much of a cultural weight as they did in Mexico.

Anglo: As in Anglo-Saxon, from English background. This is a race designation much like White. It does not reflect the geographical and cultural differences though there is a lot tied to this word as well. It is also a pretty outdated word, like Caucasian, and to be honest most people nowadays don’t use it. It does cover some of these differences, though in modern discussions of race it would be “White, non-Hispanic” because White is considered a race and Hispanic is an ethnic designation. And while this could describe me, it obviously would not refer to all people from the states of different races, and ethnic groups including other Hispanic populations, who move to Puerto Rico.

Ex-pat: Expatriate. While moving to Puerto Rico in many ways may feel like moving to another country, unless someone has moved from another country other than USA to Puerto Rico, this term does not technically apply and really shouldn’t be used to describe people who move from the states here.

So…what do I do?
Sometimes I may use one of the above terms, but I generally say “from the states” or “stateside” since Puerto Rico is technically not a state, I feel that that is safe. Gringo is probably the most common one that most people use in English and sometimes in Spanish. In Spanish, Americano seems to be the most used term.

I hear most Puerto Ricans call themselves Puerto Rican (Puertorriqueño) or Boricua which is the ancient Taino word for the inhabitants of this island as it was once known: Borinquen. So in reference to people from here I use these terms or I may also say “from the island” (de la isla) even though Puerto Rico is technically more than one island (see what I mean by complicated!?).

Puerto Rico Flag Door

And the final question: Am I now Puerto Rican?

Now that we are full-time residents of Puerto Rico, am I Puerto Rican? Though it is common to say, I have begun to feel a little uncomfortable using “Puerto Rican” as a term that excludes myself now because I am a resident of Puerto Rico. By living here I now have more in common with people in Puerto Rico than people elsewhere and so I do not want to feel an “us vs them” mentality. I am, after all, a Puerto Rican if the definition is that I live in Puerto Rico! This is now home! But I know that for many reasons there will probably always be a distinction between me and the Puerto Ricans who have been born and raised on these islands or even those whose families are from here. Just as I will always have my own ties to Colorado.

And so after all of this, I am still just not exactly sure what the best way to identify myself and others like me that is accurate, sensitive and easy. Any thoughts?

So we will continue to live in Puerto Rico with questions of identity (or at least semantics). Perhaps our own search for identity here is a reflection of the island itself as a land in search of an identity- a clear place and description in the world. Sometimes defined as a country, a nation, a territory, a commonwealth, a state, an island chain, but always, just like all of us, looking for both our unique individuality and a place to belong.

PR Flag4

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Careful! What You Bring Into Your Life Has Consequences

Be careful of what you bring into your life.

BK in HD
One of many trips to Home Depot for “stuff”

This is yet another motto we try to remember especially as we have traversed this new life in Puerto Rico. Often times I think people just sort of slide into the lives they have and all of the belongings that they acquire. Everyone else has this or that, so I should too, we may say to ourselves. When we began sorting through all of our things in Greeley, it was incredible how much we had acquired over the 10 years we lived there. And we thought we were somewhat conscientious of our “stuff”.

Our “stuff” is a sort of parallel, a perspective that allows us to see what we value. You may think that a TV is just a TV but it also reflects your interests. TV shows, video games, movies, etc. Each object has an inherent use or meaning behind it. Sometimes those are obvious like the TV or a kitchen table, or a bed or washing machine, and sometimes those objects carry a sentimental or non-functional use, or a “future use” which is something that you think maybe down the line will be useful.

I have a hard time with that one because I am a future thinker. I love to imagine things down the line and I like to have a variety of resources available to me later. The problem with this is when it doesn’t actually come down the line. Then it is just junk cluttering up your space.

Living in a 300 sq foot studio cabana made us double think the importance of various objects. For example, a bed was crucial. It acts not only as a place to sleep but also as a couch for watching shows on the laptop. And since it is also in the middle of our living area, it is the main component of the room. Therefore we wanted it to look nice as well.

New Bed
Our bed and central living space

The American mentality is often to just buy (or get) anything and everything. The more stuff, the better, right? Not so much when you consider the true cost behind each object. If it is something that you truly value (and by that I would say, something you use or think about at least weekly), then it is probably important enough in your life. But sometimes we bring things into our lives without truly considering the impact they will have.

Everything we have has an inherent trade involved. If you have a washing machine (like we do), you have the convenience of not having to wash laundry by hand, but you have traded space for this thing that will, at some point, break and either need to be replaced or fixed. Britton traded sawing down trees by hand for a chainsaw. But the inherent trade was higher levels of danger, ongoing maintenance, gasoline, blades and the potential to take down a lot more trees than desired. Even the bed that seems so obvious a choice had trades with it. We must clean the linens, and dust the frame and sweep under it. It takes up a lot of space (a lot more than hammocks would have for instance).

These trades are not just in large purchases like a washer or chainsaw or bed, but in all the small things as well. If you buy disposable water bottles, you are trading your money for something that brings convenience but contributes to the waste stream of harmful plastics and drives up the cost of something so basic and primal as water. If you buy or find a knick-knack, it will take up space in your life. You will need to dust it and keep it clean (or replace batteries depending on the object). And WHERE and HOW you buy your stuff also matters. Buying locally keeps the money in the local economy and more directly helps people than big corporations, but it may be more expensive. Buying online or in big box stores may be “cheaper” but far more expensive in many other regards.


If you haven’t seen the Story of Stuff, it is a must!

The point is that every item in our life has many reverberating consequences that we may not have thought about before bringing them into our life. Sometimes we may bring something in and then realize that it wasn’t necessary or was actually causing too many other issues associated that we didn’t think about beforehand.  So we need to dispose of it. Well, that means work. You either need to sell the objects or find someone to take them off your hands. Suddenly this thing that meant so much to you (or cost so much in terms of money) is now not worth much at all when you no longer need it. Your “stuff” has turned into “crap” as the wonderful George Carlin so astutely noted. We found this was the case when we moved as well. All of a sudden things we had paid $100 for would only bring $10-20 on Craigslist or a garage sale. Our precious stuff wasn’t so precious after all.


George Carlin nails it!

If you buy too much stuff this way (buy high and sell low), you are spinning your wheels. What is worse than spinning your wheels though, is to PAY to have your stuff held for you -such as in a storage container or buying a big house. This is when you know that your stuff has taken WAY too much of your life energy and the trade is far too steep.

Britton and Flamboyan small
We took our time finding this flamboyán a home (thanks Fran and Steve)

We have spun our wheels a little bit with the trees we have planted here. They are so small when they come from the nursery, but have the future potential to grow super tall. When we arrived we were so excited about planting that we would plant something in the first area that had been cleared out. Now that we have cleared more, we realize that many of them are planted too closely together and need to be transplanted. I remember learning from one of my very favorite and prescient bosses that there is a difference between activity and achievement. Just because you are running around frantically doesn’t mean that anything is actually getting done. Spinning your wheels.

I was talking with Britton the other day about our year anniversary in Puerto Rico. I said, congratulations on not doing anything major on the wood house this year. He looked at me like I was crazy. Of course we should have done more on the house, of course we should have a nice larger space to live in, he must have been thinking. But NOT doing something in this situation was actually a larger achievement than doing it.

Why? Well, it meant that we were being thoughtful and careful about what we truly wanted. We were not spinning our wheels and regretting rash or quick decisions. We took our time cutting down trees. We didn’t get our chickens or turkeys until we had taken care of our basic needs because we knew they would add another chore or element to our lives that we would have to take into consideration. With this amount of time we have been able to meet more people and understand our options even more. We have been able to see if the budget we had anticipated would work out (it has). If we had jumped in too fast it would have been chaotic and a lot more wheel spinning.

We are still working on this motto. It is so tempting to just go out and buy something. Especially at the first hint that something could be “easier” if we did. If you rationally break it down and list out the pros and cons, though, you may find that some things just don’t make sense in your situation but would make a lot of sense if you had been dealt different cards.

For instance, we had the opportunity to get a 400 gallon water cistern from a friend who was generously selling it for about half what you would buy it in the store. We were initially very excited about this great deal. As we thought about it more, however, we weren’t sure where to put it or what to do with it. Especially when our housing infrastructure hasn’t been completed. Would we use it as a backup for city water? Well, that’s not really necessary since we have at least 400 gallons backed up in the pipes and have always had water whenever the water has gone out. Would we use it as a rainwater catchment system to water plants? Well, our water bills have been so low (about as low as you can get) that cost of the tank and the cleaning of the tank (clorine tabs, time) and the space it would take up didn’t make sense either. Would we like to be completely off grid on rainwater only? If so, we would need a lot more tanks than just one and we would also need a lot more space to store them as well as some sort of filtration system and water purification system if it was to be potable.

Basically, we did the calculations. And the calculations kept coming back that we just really didn’t need the tank! At least not at this point in time. Being careful or mindful of the “stuff” in your life is sort of like being mindful of your food. It is easy to get careless and sloppy and just eat or buy whatever some company is marketing to you, but to be mindful means to actually think it through the long term. Down the line, will this move me forward in the direction I want to go or will I be spinning my wheels (or even going backwards)?

Our stuff has a deep emotional and ancient survival component to it as well which sometimes makes it harder to let go, but remembering to be mindful about what you bring into your life in the first place will help to filter out a lot of the “junk” or “crap” (now or later). The less stuff you have to think about the freer you can be.

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Chikungunya, Dengue? And More…Healthcare in Puerto Rico

Last Thursday evening we met up with some friends. We enjoyed a few drinks, snacks and watched the sun setting over the ocean. As we were getting up to leave, I suddenly felt like I had been hit by a truck. But there was no truck in sight. Every muscle and joint in my body hurt. It was like someone turned on a pain switch. I had gone from 35 to 90 years old in a matter of minutes. I could hardly walk, my head was pounding and I was heating up.

By the time we got home, I achingly crawled into bed and Cassie took my temperature. It was 103F. I tried to sleep, but my brain pain wouldn’t let me.

The next day we had a full day planned. Drop off a friend at the airport and then head off with some other friends to Gilligan’s Island. I barely managed to get to the airport. When I tried to lift our friend’s luggage out of the truck, my arms felt like they were going to fall off. We went straight home and didn’t leave the house again until Monday when I couldn’t take it any more. I had been without sleep for nearly 72 hours by that point and my fever hadn’t gone away. I would be chilled to the point of vigorous shaking and then so hot I was laying in front of a box fan and sweating profusely. I had lost all appetite.

Cassie stayed with me most of the time and we watched movies and she read while I attempted to sleep. Pretty much everything stopped while my body continued to burn up.

Emergencia small

The lack of sleep was really what drove me to finally go to the emergency room. Which isn’t really an emergency room. It’s more like a non-emergency room because we sat in the waiting room for nearly 4 hours before any medical staff saw us. Cassie had to go to the plaza panaderia to get some food while we camped out there. I tried to rest my head against the wall in the room full of sick and suffering others.

Finally someone called my name and we were so excited! I talked with someone who did a brief evaluation -asked my symptoms and then sent us back out to the waiting room for another 30 minutes. When I was finally admitted to the back room, we talked to a doctor who after hearing the symptoms threw up her arms and matter-of-factly said “Let’s do this!”” while walking out the door. And we were like, “Do what?”

BK doctor visit small
Don’t let the expression on my face fool you, I actually WAS very grumpy

We soon found out that “this” was to run all the tests, hook me up to an IV and shoot me in the butt with a muscle relaxer. After about 3 bags of saline, pain killers and antibiotics I started to feel somewhat better.

The blood tests came back negative for influenza but showed indicators of a viral infection, most likely chikungunya or dengue (damn mosquitoes!) but to find out that, the tests were sent off to the CDC office in Mayaguez and I haven’t yet heard the results. The blood tests also showed indicators of a bacterial infection and very low blood platelets. ~70 when it should have been between 140-469.

We had arrived at the emergency room around 10am that morning and at about 7pm we were finally on our way home. I thought I was feeling much better, but when I arrived home, I had a violent attack of the shivers and my fever spiked back up though I felt like I was freezing. A strange feeling in the tropics.

Before the doctor discharged me, she gave me orders to fill a Rx and to come back the next day to check the platelet count. So we did. The platelets came back even lower at ~59, but they wouldn’t let me talk to a doctor about the results without being re-admitted, so we left. I felt somewhat better and didn’t want to wait another 4 hours.

We started reading online about low blood platelet numbers and found that it is very common in people suffering from dengue. And is something to be concerned about.

Papaya juice small

We randomly found a number of articles mentioning papaya leaf juice extract as a “cure” or at least as a therapy for the low blood platelets. So we went to our backyard and picked a few leaves, mashed them with the mortar and pestle and I took a couple of very bitter shots of papaya leaf juice. I would be curious to see my blood platelet levels now, but I doubt I will go in again. I do feel so much better, though not quite 100% yet.

Rincon Medical Center smallIV small

We have been here nearly a year and had yet to visit a doctor. Then in just the last two weeks, both Cassie and I did. She had a mysterious rash spreading all over her body (the doctor said was probably from Kitty) and then I got this. So we both had the opportunity to try out the medical system in Puerto Rico. In Cassie’s case, she was seen right away and in mine, not so much. In both cases, the cost without insurance was very reasonable. Right around $100 for an emergency room visit including all the tests, fluids, drugs, pokes and prods. I would say that the care was good, once you got in, but I would not recommend this if you had a trauma injury. We are still not sure where we would go in a case like that…probably Mayaguez?

We are both recovering and I think we will just add this to our list of crazy adventures in Puerto Rico.

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