Category Archives: Rincon

Festival y Caravana de Yuntas de Bueyes

Britton and I had heard about the Festival and Oxen Parade that was to be held this past weekend. Apparently it was the 7th Annual Caravan and is meant to recreate and celebrate times past when the farmers would bring their sugarcane and other goods down from the mountains to the coast.

It was held on both Saturday and Sunday (Dec. 21-22) but we just went on Sunday. We thought we could catch the parade as it passed through the public plaza after the morning Farmers’ Market, but after waiting a while and not knowing when it would start, we decided to walk from the main plaza and go check out the whole festival down at Plaza de la Amistad across the street from the Econo grocery store.

Pincho CassieEnjoying a piña colada and a pincho (grilled chicken on a skewer)

It was raining off and on, but it was a fun time. They had live music, Puerto Rican street food and lots of artisanal booths. We even talked with a beekeeper from Ciales who said he could help us start our beehive (in a designated space besides our house -ha)!

After walking around and ducking under the tents when it would rain, we were about to head back to the truck around 3pm when we saw the caravan making its way to downtown Rincón.

Britton and OxenBritton and some white bueyes (oxen)

It’s pretty cool to see all these local traditions come to life in the present. The parade was somewhat similar to when we had the longhorn cows during the Greeley Stampede Parade, but the Stampede was much more organized and controlled. Here cars were still driving on the roads while the parade was in procession and just about everyone was drinking something. We saw people pouring whole cups of Bacardi and drinking them while they towed people with their tractor or oxen. It was also very loud, especially the vehicles in the rear of the parade with sirens and blaring music. Everyone seems to be in high spirits (literally) this time of year.

Caravana Cassie and los bueyes Ox Sugarcane

Overall, it was a great day out and we had a lot of fun. We were also happy to get back to our quiet little finca tucked up and away from all the loud celebrations going on for the holiday season. We hope you are all enjoying the holidays as well.

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The Mail Game

So you would think getting your mail service set up would be a relatively simple task. If you are us, in Puerto Rico, you would be wrong. This has been an ongoing “game” since we arrived.  When we first arrived, we were using simply “General Delivery” to the Rincón post office. We sent our bicycles and a box of tools this way.

IMG_3626Shipping our bicycles in boxes from Colorado

This worked great and all of our mail arrived. We continued doing this (and are continuing to do this) but the post office workers said we couldn’t use general delivery for long and that we had better set up a more permanent solution. They recommended getting a P.O. Box as it is the most secure, or if not, we would have to get a locking mail box on our “rural route”. We thought about it and got some advice. Some friends had also advised us to get a PO box.  The only issue we saw with the PO box was that it has an associated and ongoing cost with it.  The yearly fee is ~$80/year.  That seems steep for something we normally received without an additional fee.

So we checked out what everyone else in our neighborhood was using and decided that we would use that: a cluster box. We were familiar with that as that is how we received mail at our house in Greeley.

IMG_3879The clusterbox of our neighborhood

The post office workers said we would need to take a picture of the box in order for them to know which one it was, so we did! They checked and said that it was full and so we would have to install our own mailbox next to this clusterbox! Ok, that seemed kind of weird because wouldn’t you just want to make a bigger box instead of having a bunch of different mailboxes next to the clusterbox? But alright, we can do that.

Post office
We have spent many a morning in this Post Office of Rincón

We inquired about using our own mailbox and after a few trips back and forth to the post office in Rincón (“come back mañana”) we got some instructions to setup a mailbox. After that they then would assign us a number for it.  “Great!” we thought and a day or so later we set off to Home Depot to try and find a mailbox (what we learned are called a “buzon” in Spanish).

The only mailboxes that Home Depot had were a sort of generic box and the post.  All in all the cost was actually kind of high (around $100), which is more than the PO box is for one year of service, but we bit the bullet and bought a mailbox…only to find out that it didn’t lock! We looked at how the other boxes around worked and found that they cut a slit in the front and then put a padlock on them, but the ones from Home Depot (and later we looked at Walmart and just about every Ferretaria we could find) are made so that no padlock can be attached.

We decided we would go with the upright boxes that do have locks and so we took back the unlockable one and bought a new one. I installed it to a post, dug a hole, put in concrete and thought I was ready to receive my number to put on the box.

Digging mailbox hole
Digging the hole for our new box

Mailbox installed
Installed!

We turned in all the paperwork and waited for the rural route clerk to give us our number and start delivering the mail. When we returned to the post office they said that they could not deliver to that type of mailbox: that it had to be the tube style one. We explained that we could not find any that had any locks on it and asked if we could buy one from them. Little did we know: the mail service does not sell mail boxes!

After multiple excursions to Mayaguez looking for mailboxes and having no luck finding any tube locking ones, we were ready to just get a P.O. Box.

So I went down to the Rincón Post Office and picked up my mail (General Delivery from my mom in Colorado) and said I was ready to buy a P.O. Box. The clerk said the person who normally does that has not been coming in to work and that I would have to wait. OK, well at least they can’t say I haven’t tried to get my mail set up, because in all honesty, I don’t really mind just picking it up as General Delivery!

So I was talking with our new friend who is the postmaster in Cabo Rojo and said that we were ready to just get a PO Box and be done with it. From Cabo Rojo he called Rincón and set us up with a PO box!

We thought we were all set and today we went in to get the key and they said that that box belonged to someone else! So we asked if we could transfer it to another number and they said they couldn’t do that…

So again we wait. And get our general delivery mail. We haven’t missed any mail, even the ones that have started going to what we thought was our new PO Box. Everyone at the post office has been very nice and helpful saying that they would personally look for anything that was ours. We have heard that part of the problem is that the Rincón postmaster recently died and that everything has been out of sorts there, so we have tried to give them some slack.

We don’t get that much mail and it really isn’t that big of a deal anyway because it always eventually reaches us. It has just been an ongoing game that we seem to play once or twice a week: the mail game. We are just as curious how this game will turn out as anyone.

 

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Observations on Life in Puerto Rico: A Comparison

For the most part, I think we have managed to settle in here in Puerto Rico rather well considering that nearly everything in our life has changed. We had visited quite a few times so we had some idea of what to expect but it is always a little different visiting than living somewhere. Having a place to live has made the transition easier because we didn’t have to find a place to rent or go on any more seemingly endless house hunts. Our property is nice also because it almost at the very end of a calle sin salida (cul de sac) that means very little traffic or noise. So if we ever feel overwhelmed we can just stay home.

our fincaOur Property from the Road

Socially we have been making new friends and are starting to expand our circles and networks. It is different making friends here than in Colorado. In Colorado we had a mix of long-time school friends, work friends, past work friends and a few through eclectic methods plus our family. Here pretty much everyone we meet is through an eclectic method (through this site, friends of friends, events, interesting run-ins).

It has been a strange feeling to start all over making friends, but everyone has been very welcoming and a lot of them are empathetic to us because they were once in our shoes as well -learning everything anew.

So what are some of the observations and differences of life in Puerto Rico compared with Colorado?

The most obvious difference here compared with Colorado has been the weather. It is always nice out. Sometimes it rains and sometimes it gets really hot, but it is always within 20 degrees. This is dramatically different from Colorado where the weather could swing 60 degrees in one day let alone from summer to winter.

Shower View

 

Another difference is that in Puerto Rico, everything is in Spanish. Many people speak English as well, but Spanish predominates. And not only should you know at least a little Spanish to read the road signs and menus, but there are some slang and abbreviations that might take a moment to consider. For instance, CVD. When we first saw this we weren’t sure what that was until we saw it over and over again written on cars.

CVD car

So what is CVD? It is short for “Se Vende” which means “For Sale”. Perhaps in English an equivalent would be to put “4 Sale” using the number instead of word.

Another thing that is different are street venders at major intersections. They almost always will have bottles of water, but sometimes they will also sell bananas, peppers, and other foods that we don’t know. Everything is a dollar (un peso). They will come up to you and sell it to you through the window! In Colorado we would occassionally see someone begging for money, but these guys are pretty brave to stand in the middle of the street and sell their wares at the stoplights of these crazy intersections.

Selling aguaSelling water at an intersection in Mayaguez

Which brings me to…driving! Driving here is also quite different. Addresses are marked in kilometers which is something most Americans like us are just not familiar with. But once you get the hang of it, you will start to understand it a little better when driving. However, even though everything is marked in kilometers, the speed limit (velocidad maxima) signs are still in miles! At least that’s what we think they are! ha!

Driving in general is completely different here. We’ve heard it compared to walking through a busy a mall and that is much closer to what driving is. People will cross in front of you, or stop and chat on the road and hold up traffic. They will also stop traffic just to help you cross if the traffic is heavy. In some ways it is a much more social style of driving than the formal, rule-heavy ways of Colorado. Drinking and driving laws don’t seem to have sunk in totally either. We were filling up with gas the other day and saw a guy pull up to the pump while drinking a can of Medalla Light (the main Puerto Rican beer).

Oh and gasoline is sold in liters instead of gallons. Currently it is just under $1 per liter or a little less than $4 per gallon.

Gasoline in liters

In Colorado horses are pretty popular, but in Puerto Rico you will see them in some of the strangest places: backs of El Camino cars, next to playground equipment or tied to a tree in order to mow down the grass. And then we have heard about the large horse festivals in which everyone brings a horse and stands in the middle of the road. Sounds kind of fun to me and I look forward to seeing one some time. The horses here are almost all “Paso Fino” which means “Fine Step” and so they walk distinctly. They always seem to be trotting and because they carefully lift each foot they look very dainty and the rider on top stays nearly still.

horse and playgroundHorsing around?

Food here is another obviously different part of life. Whereas in Colorado we had a large Mexican food influence, Puerto Rican food is very different. The base flavor is garlic and fried food is very common. Another type is called Criollo food and because of that we have now tried Fricaseed Rabbit! I will try and write more about the food here because it is an incredibly diverse topic.

Food at CambijaCeviche, salad and a grilled dorado burrio- Yum!

Music is also distinct. On the radio we hear a lot of salsa, bachata, and also American and Spanish language pop. Locally in Rincón there is quite a live-music scene as well including Bomba groups.

Bomba Dancing

Then there is also all the flora and fauna that is new to us. While we had poisonous rattlesnakes, deadly black widow spiders and itchy poison ivy and goat heads in Colorado, we were familiar with them and knew how to avoid their dangers and discomforts. Here we know next to nothing about the iguanas, birds, geckos, vines, trees and grasses.

Britton monkey in the watermelon tree

Britton with a tree called “Higuera” or Calabash Tree that grows huge watermelon sized fruits which can be hollowed out and used to make bowls and maracas

In Colorado we also had virtually no experience with water sports. Sure there are lakes and rivers, but there are obviously no waves or oceans. Britton and I have both been to the ocean before but it is a little different to live in a seaside village. Surf culture in itself is something new to us and we are excited to try out all sorts of things from spear-fishing to sailing, snorkeling to surfing.

Domes Beach

In total, this experience has been almost like completely pushing the reset button to our life in nearly every way. We have each other, a few of our belongings and our cat.

Cassie and Kitty

In most everything else we get to be children again and look at life in a fresh new light.

Tiny Lizard

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Yard Work in December

With four acres of untamed land we knew we would have our work cut out for us. When we first arrived we had to at least clear enough of the front driveway/courtyard to be able to drive our vehicle in. Then Britton worked on the lower fenced back yard and slowly we have moved our way out of the chain link fence area into the real jungle where we are slowly planting our orchard of tropical fruit trees.

Plants in waiting
Plants in waiting

Clearing the jungle is hard work. Even though it is December we still have some pretty intensely hot days which makes it even harder. It is ok to go out for a few minutes and water the trees and plants in waiting under the house but when it is a bright sunny day like yesterday, it only takes about 10 minutes in the sun before we are sweating and our energy starts to drain.

When it gets that hot we will usually go and hang out in the cabana. Because it is located under a huge mango tree it stays cool and shady most of the day.

Cabana

After we mistakenly took down the avocado tree because it was covered in vines, we decided we would do our best to clear out all the small trees and vines around the big ones before we took them down. But that is quite the undertaking.

Probably the hardest part of clearing the jungle are all the vines! Some of these vines are the size of tree trunks! They criss-cross and tangle themselves making it just about impossible to tear them off the tops of the trees. Then you add in the fact that these vines have flowers that attract the bees and you can see the challenge we face.

Our tools of choice working in the jungle area are pruners/loppers, a hand saw and a machete. We swing around the machete to try to make an indentation in all the growth and I go in under it and snip at the small 1 inch or less diameter trees, plants and vines that are growing around and over the bigger trees. Once I clear the area around the bigger trees, Britton takes the handsaw to them and we then drag them to piles scattered all over the back.

When we have some space cleared and we know we won’t be dropping a huge tree on top, we plant our fruit trees. Because it is so green, we have had to try various methods of marking them. Our current method is to put a stick painted in the orange-red paint of the cabana next to each tree we plant.

Tree StakesOrange tipped sticks mark our recent transplants

We are not exactly sure what to do with all this material we have piled up but we will need to do something or the vines will take over and we will have big tangled messes once more. We have started a compost pile with some and we are thinking of maybe having a campfire/bonfire and inviting some friends over to roast marshmallows on the remainder.

Dead trees 1Piles of sticks, branches and tree trunks

We still have a long way to go. We have probably cleared a good acre and planted about 30 plants (including ornamentals) by now, but have 3 more acres and 15-20 more plants (in the current load)! We have not decided how far we want to clear because the more we clear, the more we will have to maintain or the jungle will claim it once again.

It is very physically hard work and we’ve been waking up sore. Our feet hit the hard tiles in the morning and we can feel our bones moan. Our hands are blistered and our bodies stiff. But it is gratifying in a way. There is something about using your body for work that is underappreciated in the modern world.

Most modern people (us included) walk around with our heads detached from our bodies. So when we get out there and get dirty and sweaty and messy it awakens in us that mind-body connection. We directly and immediately can see the progress (and mistakes). And we can look towards the future as well: the thoughts of tasting juicy tropical exotic fruits in a few months or years keeps us going.

Small StarfuitBaby starfruit on our new tree

Plus we have perspective. There is no way we could be doing yard work or planting trees in the depths of the arctic weather that Colorado is having right now and that is a sweet feeling in itself.

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