Yesterday, our electrician friend Papo had to finish up some work with our friends, and invited us all to spend the rest of the day with him. Our friends declined, but Britton and I were up for the adventure. We got a late start and it was a little rainy out but we decided to go for it anyway. At our friends’ house we ate pollo al carbon con yuca y escabeche (rotisserie chicken with cassava and green banana) with a side of pinchos (chicken skewers) and fresh fruit and we stopped for gas. The tanks were all full and so we were ready to hit the road.
Papo and Britton with the truck
We loaded up into his large blue guagua and drove from Rincón to Quebradillas/Isabela listening to old Puerto Rican trio music and stopping occasionally for a beer or some ajonjoli (sesame) candies.
An example of Puerto Rican trio music
When we arrived it was a little before 6pm so we didn’t have a whole lot of time to explore. I definitely want to go back another time and see more of the area. The day was a little misty and the visibility wasn’t super great, but it sort of added to the post-apocalyptic feel of the place. Anything man-made looked run-down and falling apart. There were a couple loose dogs (satos) and some trash. Still it was a sort of spectacular find and I am surprised we hadn’t heard of it before.
First we stopped at a look-out spot. Just behind our heads you can see the famous tunnel
This apparently used to be a lively bar and restaurant. Now it looks like the scene from a sci-fi movie
The beach area was long and expansive, but there really wasn’t anyone there. Maybe during the weekends it fills up. The current looked strong and it was a bit rocky, so probably more of a beach hangout spot or possibly surfing rather than a swimming beach.
Britton and Papo checking out the beach
We walked through the short tunnel that is dark enough to have bats flying around and a nice echo, but you could pretty much see the light the whole way through. Walking through there, you could feel a rich history of the place. Britton was just amazed at the amount of work it would have been to carve a tunnel and trench through this rock (his mind is always imagining himself doing the work -haha).
Guajataca Tunnel and friendly sato
I researched a little about this tunnel and learned that it was once part of the extensive railroad system in Puerto Rico and connected the town of Quebradillas with Isabela in order to better transport the sugar cane. I found this old photograph of it too.
Guajataca Tunnel and rail system -courtesy of the Univ of PR
There was a long wall built along the cliffs -built by Spaniards like most of them? No sé
And some impressive rock out-croppings
Climbing to the top of the spiky rocks offered some beautiful views of the water below
There looked to be a couple of cave entrances along the cliff face, but it was far too dark to begin exploring them. Maybe another day.
In true Papo fashion, we ended up at a billiards bar and I beat both Britton and Papo at each game (not due to my skill, but my ability to NOT scratch the 8 Ball as they both did! 😉 ) This little bar was another great movie scene complete with the tacky mirror advertisements and a juke box playing Marc Anthony, Maná, Gran Combo and lots of other Puerto Rican musicians I had never heard of. A perfect setting! We rounded out the evening with empanadillas and pizza at a road-side food truck. The tanks were filled again: My brain was full of new Spanish words and Puerto Rican sights, my belly was full of beer and roadside food and my heart was full of love and gratitude.
Rack ’em! They call them pequeñas y grandes instead of solids and stripes
I harken back to our day trips (Orocovis, Mar Chiquita, etc) with our friend Diosdado and am reminded and just so thankful for the hospitality of the people here. In Puerto Rico, it seems to me that if you are willing to hang out and have a good time, you won’t have any problem finding someone to do the same. Even in the middle of a Wednesday afternoon. You just have to be up for the adventure!
