Category Archives: Beach

Trip to Culebra Island, Puerto Rico

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This past week we took a mini vacation to the small island of Culebra. If there was ever a place that has the quintessential tropical Caribbean island look, this is it!


Incredible Culebra!

The long stretches of powdered sugar white beaches and the warm turquoise waters of Flamenco beach were straight out of a travel magazine. We only stayed one night at the first place we saw, Kokomo, right off the ferry dock, but we got a good feel for the place.

I think we could have gotten a better deal because it was about the size of a closet and we had to crawl over the bed to get anywhere, and the floors needed a good mopping but it had hot water to shower and a clean bed so it wasn’t too horrible for $65. We asked around at a couple of places just to see what the going nightly rate was. One guy quoted me at Mamacitas Guesthouse $119 plus tax and I just said thanks and turned around. Then he said, “Well, how about $80?” So there is definitely room to negotiate if you go there!


The ferry terminal has moved from Fajardo to Ceiba after Hurricane Maria

It was still off-season on a Tuesday in early November. There was hardly anyone on the roads as we drove around in our golf cart (that we rented for about $50) going about 10 mph hiding Aeden in a beach bag. It was so fun. It’s like being in a tropical island adventure video game where you drive in a go-cart especially up some crazy hills and little side dirt roads haha.


Golf cart and off roads

Probably the hardest part about the trip was just how far it was from Rincon. Rincon is the furthest west you can go on the island of Puerto Rico and Ceiba is nearly the farthest east! So we gave ourselves 4 hours to get there going the southern route and giving time to stop for breakfast at El Meson, but we were still late and had to take the 11am ferry instead of the 9am. The boat ride was fun if a little choppy and we caught air a couple of times that made me just a little queasy. It took about an hour ride there. It was much quicker coming back the next day not fighting the current and we learned to go inside into the air conditioned area.


From the Ceiba Ferry to white sand beaches in about 1 hour!

The island is super tiny. Only about 1500 people live there and there are no other towns than the island itself. The disparity between rich and poor is very obvious. The poor and tourists take the ferry and the rich (and splurging tourists) fly in or boat in with sailboats and other vessels. The poor live in run down shacks and the rich have huge mansions on the hills.


Boats in the harbor


Family fun!


Cool drawbridge and moon!

My overall impression was that it was an incredible place to visit, but I would definitely get island fever living there because there is really not much to do other than spend time at the beaches and drink and that would get old quick. At least on the “main island” of Puerto Rico we can drive for 4 plus hours and get lost!


At the bridge to Flamenco Beach


One of the tanks by the sea

The most shocking thing to me was learning about the history of the bombing and military drills that were practiced on Culebra and Vieques. I can only imagine what it would have been like to live on an island that is so pristine only to hear, feel and see live munitions going off. And occasionally people (as well as flora and fauna) were hurt! Rates of cancer have been found to be higher on these islands as a result of dropping bombs on them as well. Thankfully these practices ended in the early 2000s but there are still some remnants such as these leftover tanks rusting in the sun and sea salt.


Another tank on Playa Flamenco that has been consumed by the sea


Great place for a photo shoot!


The Dinghy Dock is a popular restaurant in Culebra


We dressed up for dinner out. And with Hector the Protector in the background


Melones Beach is much different than Flamenco and is mostly full of washed up coral

Overall, it was a wonderful, short trip. I would have liked to have maybe seen a couple of other beaches, but I think we got a good feel for the place in our brief time there. There’s not a whole lot on an island that’s only about 7 miles wide! We climbed a hill, visited the police dock, went out to dinner at the night Dinghy Dock restaurant that had just opened for the season and walked around the ferry/downtown area where they are doing construction on a new pier/dock.


Aeden playing on the beach

Worth a visit for sure! When we arrived back on the main island we caught up with our friends Fran and Steve and then hung out at a pizzeria at the Luquillo Kiosks and then we were on our (long) way back home to Rincon. A fun outing and Aeden did so good in the car!

Here’s a quick video of our trip. Enjoy!

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Surfer’s Beach for Survival Beach

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Checking out Surfer’s Beach

I have been wanting to check out Survival Beach for some time. It is supposed to have some pretty picturesque sea rocks and caves and a really fun hike. One day we were out driving around and we thought we would run some errands in Aguadilla. I remembered that Survival Beach is accessed by foot with a 30-40 minute hike that starts at Surfer’s Beach. “Hey, let’s check it out!” I’m sure if we were surfers we would already know about it, but it was another first for us.


This sign cracked me up!

To get to Surfer’s Beach you must go through a gated area that looks to be owned by the Electric or Water Company. I assume it is always open, but it was strange that it was gated. Once in, the road is very beautiful lined with palm trees and flamboyans with a rock curb. Upon arrival there is a small skate park and a little coconut drink place that was closed when we arrived. It looked like maybe someone had parked their van to stay/live there with a grill, tarp, clothes hanging out, etc.


Little Coconut Kiosk


Pile of Coconuts (used for said kiosk I presume)


Small skate park and picnic tables


Nice (very tall) bench to watch the waves


Fun at Surfer’s Beach


De Camino a Survival Beach

We found the sign that pointed the way to the start of the hike, but weren’t prepared with the right shoes, food, water, etc. So we walked a few yards down the path that was strewn with fallen trees to one of the beach outcroppings, and said we would save that hike for another day. I am not sure what the story is about why it’s called Survival (or sometimes Survivor Beach), but it did look rough and that you would need to use your survival skills if you washed ashore out there with no road, but a hike of a trail to it.


Going under some fallen trees on the early part of Survival Beach trail

Looks like another adventure is in the queue! But until then we enjoyed our short time at Surfer’s Beach.

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Hurricane Season Life

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Sept 10 is the zenith of hurricane probability

Ever since Hurricane Maria, hurricane season has become something different in our minds. We came to Puerto Rico very naive about hurricanes, and we lived here for 4 years with basically nothing ever happening. We had an occasional tropical storm, but we’ve had stronger aguaceros (downpours) come out of the blue. But Maria changed all of that optimism and surety. We have a deep underlying trauma associated with hurricanes now. On the surface, our logical brain tells us that if we can survive 2 + months of living like primitive people we can survive anything! But underneath, our subconscious says “Ah, hell no. I don’t want to do that again!” So we have our conscious and subconscious minds competing against each other.


This time last year I was 8 months pregnant going through hurricane season!

I was particularly nervous last year for a few reasons, most notably that I was pregnant with a due date right around the climatic probability of storms. After the birth my medical care turned out to be VERY lacking as it was without a storm, so I can only imagine how bad it would have had there been no electricity, water or medical supplies. I am SO grateful everything turned out ok. It was iffy there for a bit. My medical care nightmare is probably for another day, but suffice it to say, I don’t  ever want to be in another major medical emergency in Puerto Rico with or without a hurricane looming.


Last year in our tropical gardens

One of our neighbors is currently about as pregnant as I was, so we thought it would be fun to do a photoshoot in our gardens that we have finally named. Since Puerto Rico is La Isla del Encanto (The Isle of Enchantment), we named our farm/gardens The Garden of Enchantment. You can check out our new Facebook page and give it a like if you want. Julie is about as nervous as I was having her first baby in an unfamiliar land and so we thought it would be a nice de-stressor to take a little of that anxiety away and focus on the beauty that she is emanating! I gathered materials from all over the gardens and made her a flower crown to make her a jungle queen.


Finished flower crown

Here’s a “How-to” Video on the making of the crown.

It turned out so nice.


What a gorgeous mama-to-be


Even Aeden got to check out his jungle friend in making

When we heard a storm called Dorian was forming and heading straight for us, our nerves started to fray a little. We turned on the hurricane brain and started prepping. Extra gas, water, food, batteries, clean out the cistern, shut the windows, check, check, check.


There are always runs on water. We just rinse out and refill our jugs


Day of Dorian right outside Econo…wouldn’t think anything was abnormal!

Dorian thankfully turned anticlimactic and didn’t even really have any rain. But it did bring back lots of memories. We ended up going to a pool party for a friend who is moving away. We had even partied at Yukayeke a lot after Maria, so the recollections are stacked. Strange how much that period of time is embedded in our psyches now.


Fun at Yukayeke


Yukayeke Resort in Anasco from the road

Living in the tropics of Puerto Rico is 90% awesome. We get to live like we’re on vacation! But interspersed are moments of sheer panic and annoyance. I guess there’s nowhere on Earth that is 100% paradise all the time. But to me, this sure comes close. Even in hurricane season. It gives us all a little something to get worked up about I guess. No one would read a story if it didn’t have some complications to resolve.


Most days are wonderful


Calm, serene and peaceful on the farm

 
Fun family times

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Growth and Markets: Our Weekly Routine in Puerto Rico

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No, I am not talking about the stock market or the GDP, but rather the original meaning of those words. Literally growing things (including a baby) and going to markets. We have a bit of a schedule and routine now, moreso than ever with a baby. We used to go out a lot more at night with the band and just to hang out at chinchorros  or downtown at the ArtWalk, but we now appreciate our quiet evenings with the kiddo sound asleep. So that means our days must be a little fuller. Fridays and Sundays mean market. Fridays we go to the San Sebastian Pulguero (Flea Market) where we do some bartering and buying. Mostly we are in the market for strange exotic plants. Actually we are ALWAYS in the market for those it seems. No matter how much plant life we throw at the property, it just eats it up.


With a new flower find at the San Sebastian Market

It’s pretty fun at the San Sebastian market because we are nearly always the only “gringos” there and so we sort of stick out like sore thumbs. But people are starting to get to know us, greet us and show us what all they have available before we even have to ask. It REALLY helps to know Spanish in these sorts of environments!


Aeden is a favorite with many people at the market including this sweet woman who even sang “Que Linda Manita” to him


Aeden and the birds back at the farm

Saturdays are usually spent back at the farm unless we have something fun planned. On Saturday afternoon we harvest the fruit and flowers for the Sunday Rincon Farmer’s Market.


Look who needs to start wearing shoes soon!


Aeden is now 11 months old! Check out his latest update video


New bromeliads in bloom at the farm


Our avocado that we accidentally cut down YEARS ago, has come back and is fruiting! I am so happy! Yay for guacamole! What’s strange about it, is only one trunk has fruit. So I think it must have been grafted long ago and we’ll probably have two types on one tree. We’ll see!


At the Farmer’s Market in Rincon. Dragonfruit! We have had our dragonfruit plant flower, but it never holds onto the fruit

The Farmer’s Market on Sunday mornings is fun. We don’t make much money, but it is worth it and it’s fairly stable for being summertime. We have made a lot of great friends there. And we use the money to go out and have brunch and drive around a bit afterward. If we make any more than that we put it into buying more plants from the nurseries or flea markets around.


Taking Aeden to Yogufruti after the Farmer’s Market one Sunday


I never knew what fashion tasted like before, but it’s pretty good! haha

During the week we mostly work on the farm: mowing, planting, improving trails. We also clean and do “turnovers” if we have guests staying in the cabana. We also like to pick a day or two to go shopping or an excursion of some sort. Sometimes we go hunting for plants on the side of the road or check out a beach. Lately it has been so hot, that we have been doing everything we can to stay cool. Since we don’t have A/C that means sitting in the baby pool, finding anywhere that has air conditioning and just milling around, eating watermelon and lots of fluids and trying to avoid the heat of the middle of the day (siesta anyone?). The beach is actually too hot for me on those sizzling days since the water and sand multiply the sun’s effect.


Staying cool in our baby pool in the shade like the hillbillies we are haha!


Fun shopping day out with friend Pauline


Stop in at an authentic chinchorro for una bien friiiia


Checking out a beach in Aguada (Tablerock) -great beach for bamboo driftwood hunters!


Fun on the farm! Dad and boy


Man and his horse swimming in Anasco


Not sure, but I believe this is a cupey flower blooming at our house


Britton had a red RX7 when he was a teenager so this made him gasp when we were driving along in Aguada one day! His 17 year-old self has multiplied! haha

He probably wasn’t listening to this type of song back then though (this is a top hit currently on the radio that we turn up when it comes on, and it’s great for Spanish vocabulary!)


Buying plants at Jardines Eneida! One of our favorite nurseries!


At Jardines Eneida. Check out the video:


I call Puerto Rico “Toon Town” and it’s not without reason…Check out this vibrant little house


And this one…who is very concerned with the modesty of its columns haha


Or this awesomely strange creation seemingly out of a sci-fi movie


Driving up the hills of Mayaguez we had a majestically different view of Rincon and Desecheo in the distance

That’s it for the update. Time flies. I can’t believe that a year ago I was hugely pregnant and just waiting for our little guy to arrive and now he’s almost walking. It’s crazy. Nothing like a kid to make time really feel warped.

Here’s a quick little video of some vignettes of our daily life in Puerto Rico. Hope you enjoy. Oh, and I am trying to do a little more with Instagram if you’d like to follow along.

 

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