Surfing at “Parking Lots”
Our friend Will plays in the band with us (we call him Will Hendrix) and Britton ran into him at the gas station. “Hey, do you want to go surfing? Let’s go! Right…now! You can borrow a board from me!”
Britton was planning on just getting some gas and then working on the cabin for the rest of the day, but hey, what’s the point of being “jubilated” if you can’t just switch gears at a moment’s notice if you want.
So Will and Britton stopped at home and picked me up and we spent the morning at the beach. Surfing is something new to both of us…in fact, being from landlocked Colorado really means that anything to do with the sea is still somewhat new to us. And surfing is like a whole culture within another culture. Something else we’ve been learning as we live in this little surf town.
They watched the waves for a while before heading out
Then they paddled out
The waves were clean but not super big. Still big enough to be a little intimidating for a noob like Britton. Will, on the other hand, is a pro. He rode wave after wave -no problem.
Will’s ride
I hung back watching and taking pictures. What a beautiful morning at the beach!
Playing in the water
Britton paddled out and then tried to catch a few. He would come back and talk with me for a while before going out again. Then he came back a final time and said he was worn out from paddling and drinking sea water. I looked down and saw he was bleeding too!
Scraped on a rock coming in
Will asked if I wanted to go out, but I am still pretty nervous about surfing. I like to go swimming in these waves but they can get pretty gnarly sometimes. I worry about getting smacked with the board or scraped up like Britton. Maybe when it’s a little flatter.
This was the extent of my surfing that day
It was fun having someone like Will who is so eager and excited to surf he doesn’t mind being with a couple of kooks like us. What a fun day. I look forward to more surf days like this!
Me and Will
Britton’s red chest from paddling
Afterward we stopped by the new Gyro place on the 413- Will’s grandma Jackie owns and runs it and it’s delicious!