Tag Archives: Puerto Rico

Our First Puerto Rican Cockfight

Yesterday we saw our first official cockfight in Puerto Rico.

Cock fight
Announcement for the tournament

A while ago we had seen an announcement for a torneo de botas de pollo and our friend Papo said he loved cockfights and that we should all go. He said this was a sort of mild version of a cockfight because they put “boots” on their spurs making the fights a little less lethal. This piqued my interest because I sort of already had some opinions about cockfighting without ever seeing it so I wanted to know how close my assumptions were to reality. Having Papo as friend has really opened up a whole different world of Puerto Rico that I’m not sure we would see otherwise.

Cockfighting or pelea de gallo really is THE sport of Puerto Rico. It is also considered a “gentleman’s game” (de caballeros) though there was no problem with women or even children being there (still it was about 30 to 1 male/female). While things are changing a little, judging from the popularity of this event, it is unlikely that this tradition will be leaving the island any time soon.

Pelea de gallos

When we entered the cancha area there was a cacophony of roosters crowing and pounding sounds as people cheered and rooted for their gallo of choice. We noticed two rings. One that was a little larger than the other. There were a lot of roosters but in between, they still had time to play dice.

Topos Dice betsIn between cockfights they played “topos” or dice betting games.

According to Papo, in a botas fight like these, the time limit for fighting is only 3 minutes unlike in a fight with espuelas (spurs) which lasts about 12 minutes or until one of the roosters dies. They keep track of the hits that each of the roosters take in order to determine the winner.

Cock fight
Even with the botas, the roosters were pretty ruthless and needed no encouragement to fight

It was almost like watching a miniature boxing match. When they bring out the roosters they have them “meet” and their neck feathers get all ruffled up. Then they start the clock and they fight non- stop. Not in one match did a rooster back off from the others or run away. Even the roosters in the cages on the ground looked like they were ready to fight. But they were also strangely docile when a human would pick them up. I suppose any bird that started fighting at a human would not last long in this environment.

Having chickens and roosters ourselves I can tell you that roosters do fight and it’s not a hard concept to see where this tradition came from (though our rooster nearly always runs from the other in order to avoid the fight). In the country in times before internet and television it would be something to do. It brings a bit of excitement. There’s people, there’s food, there’s drink, there’s entertainment, there’s gambling.

Scale
The cocks are paired up based on weight using this scale

Britton y comida Puerto Rico food
Britton eating a taco picante and a tiny 8 oz Coors Light

Pinchos con papo
And then there’s what happens to most chickens: food. Pinchos with Papo

I enjoyed looking at all the chickens. There was really one breed of rooster that was preferred over the others. Papo wasn’t sure what it was called. Some of them had single combs, some had rose or buttercup combs but the majority were a reddish color with beautiful orange and green feathering.

Cassie and Rooster
Me with one of the larger birds

I really don’t like seeing animals suffer and “forced” to fight like this, but I can sort of understand it (I don’t think I will ever truly). In Mexico I also went to a bullfight and I felt that that was far more cruel because of the human involvement in invoking pain on those huge bulls. I also know that most roosters are killed (discarded) when they are just baby chicks because they are unwanted in egg production. So in a sense, this “sport” gives them a little longer of a life and possibly a little better care than they would receive otherwise.

Awards
Trophies to the winners

Dead roosters
The losers. Even still with the botas a few of them died and were just tossed out

Watching the cockfight
Up close and personal at a cockfight

I don’t think I would pick up cockfighting as a personal hobby of mine and I certainly felt a little out of place. But I found it extremely interesting from a cultural point of view and I am glad I had the opportunity to see it if only to understand it a little more.

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Million Dollar Views

When we were putting together our plan to move to the tropics and more specifically Puerto Rico we would often talk about the reasons for doing so.  Warm climate, different culture/language, early retirement, more self sufficiency and a general idea of breaking out of the mold we were raised in to experience something different and from a different point of view.  Fast forward to having lived here now for approximately a year and a half…. We are living those ideals and it has been an interesting journey in the adjustment to a new perspective that a different culture offers. Specifically in the way different people think about and see the world.

We used to watch the show 30 Rock and there is a fantastic episode about perspectives that helps illustrate the journey of seeing the world through different eyes.

As far as breaking out of the mold we were raised in, it is a gradual process.  Switching from the rat race to a slow pace has been interesting and I find my perspective still shifting between the two philosophies all the time.  The juxtaposition is a self imposed challenge in controlling my thoughts and actions in an effort to fit in and adjust depending on who I talk with.

Is it possible to change the way we see the world from that of Jack to Kenneth or Tracy Jordan amongst others and back depending on when we consciously choose to? Or are we stuck viewing the world the way we always have?

I have noticed a lot of us folks from the states tend to have the Jack Donaghy perspective of looking at things.  No surprise that I find myself with this perspective too.  In this perspective there is a monetary value associated with everything.  As Americans raised in the American school system and surrounded by a consumerist culture, I find that it is very easy to keep score using money as the system has intended for us to do.  Nearly everyone seems to know how to operate in this imaginary sliding scale of value.  Even giving monetary value to things that have no monetary value. Or telling us how successful we are based on our income.

This brings us to the “Million Dollar View.”  It is a term that I have heard from people originally from the states now living in PR.  It has happened enough that I started to wonder how we all acquired this term and why we use it.  I think this is a symptom of the culture in the states of having to associate a dollar amount to show value.   I know exactly what we are all talking about and I agree it is difficult to describe how fantastic life here in PR can be, especially the awesome vistas.  It could cost a million dollars!!

english rose view

But…..It usually doesn’t. In fact nobody pays anywhere close to a million dollars and some of the poorest people have some of the ‘best’ views.  It is more of a $10k-$60k dollar view, or even free, but nobody says that!  It would lose all meaning, “You should see the view, its a $25k dollar view!”.  Doesn’t seem as special now does it?  Same vista but a different view.

I have also noticed that native Puerto Ricans don’t seem to care as much about views and sometimes will just let the trees grow, or build a closet on the side of the house that has the ocean view.   Shade is sometimes more valuable. Vistas just aren’t valued in monetary or social terms as much, which is a HUGE contrast.  It is just part of the backdrop of life here, not something to be defined with a dollar amount anymore than a coconut tree or a patch of grass.  It’s just there.  It starts to raise the question of what is value which I think that 30 Rock episode does a great job of illuminating.  It is different for everyone.

Beach Front for sale
A Beachfront Warehouse!

To us a parcha vine is worth a lot, so are avocado trees and bananas.  The fact that we can pick food off a tree for free vs having to buy it has value to us but not just monetary.  It is a shift from looking at things the way Alec Baldwin’s character does (see the video) and isnt just about the amount of money saved or spent, but rather a sign to living a life not dependent or defined by money and all that it entails. It shifts perspective to just existing.

One thing that seems to puzzle people from the states is that the police drive around with their lights on ALL THE TIME. I’ve heard comments about how hard it is to “catch the bad guys if you announce your location with flashing lights!”.  There is possibly another reason.  What if the perspective that the police are there to bust people is not applicable everywhere?  What if they were there to help?  Wouldn’t it be easier to flag down a patrol car if you needed help if you could see it coming down the road?  Wouldn’t this be a more pleasant way to view police in general?

Perhaps we are becoming a little more like Kenneth where we can just appreciate the simple things.  Notice in the video from Jack’s perspective Kenneth is only valued at $7. Each perspective has an upside and a downside and being able to float between them is really the million dollar view?

The consumerist system wants us to think that we have to buy something new to be happy. We don’t have to buy happiness. Things that are awesome don’t have to cost anything. Look at all the marketing used to sell products; good mood food, good life, cause you’re worth it, open happiness, happy meal, etc.

Just a thought.  The mainstream American culture is here in PR there is no doubt about that, don’t get me wrong.  It is just every once in a while I see differences in the simple things and that has to be worth something right? 😉

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Beware of Carrasco: Puerto Rico’s Poison Ivy

A friend of ours recently posted a warning similar to this title. Shortly thereafter, we were working in the area under our newly found avocado tree and we spotted the tell-tale leaves. They are holly-like lined with spikes. The plants can grow small or long and almost resemble a viney tree.

Plant
Comocladia Dodonaea

I was careful of handling it, but then a small amount touched my leg. I expected a painful burn like the stinging nettles we also have in the yard. But no, there was nothing at all. No sensation whatsoever. I was relieved. I had expected either a pokey burn or perhaps to swell up with hives as I do when I touch sunflower plants. So I thought perhaps I was one of the lucky ones that does not react to Urushiol, the plant oil in poison ivy, poison oak, poison sumac, and Carrasco, this Puerto Rican poison ivy. We continued working without much thought again about the plant and cleared a nice sized area.

However, about two-three days later I started noticing rashes appearing in certain places, then more places. On my forehead, on my arms, on my hands, on my belly, on my back, all over my legs. I was covered in red welts. The next day they blistered up and then started oozing. They were super itchy and I sometimes just couldn’t help myself but to scratch them. I tried every ointment and remedy I could find. Hydrocortizone cream, anti-itch cream, turmeric, zinc oxide and cocoa butter.

Poison Ivy

Of these, the zinc oxide was probably the most effective but really, I just had to wait it out. After about a week, they had lost the inflammation and started to scab and heal. Working outside in the jungle is a lot of fun and hard physical work. It is difficult to want to wear a lot of clothing when it is 80-85 degrees and high humidity, but if you see this plant, beware! I certainly will be much more careful the next time I do! Thankfully, it is not widespread like some of the other jungle discomforts (like the biting ants).

Urushiol, the active compound in the plant’s sap can be neutralized with rubbing alcohol.

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Earthquakes too?

Cassie and I were in the cabana making dinner when all of a sudden things started to shake….Then they continued to shake.  Then they shook a little more.  Turns out we had just experienced our first PR earthquake!  It was located closer to the Dominican Republic, but most of Puerto Rico felt it. The USGS reported it as 5.3 then updated to 5.8 at a depth of 91km.

usgs
USGS Reporting Website

I guess we can add earthquakes to the list of new experiences.  It is a strange feeling when the earth grinds against itself for a pretty long while.  There was an earthquake back in Greeley when I was a kid (maybe kindergarten?) but I all I remember was the adults freaking out about it.

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