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Flashback to Puerto Rico: August 17, 2005

Observations of the Island, Trip to Ceiba and Survivalism in Guanica

In PR

This is the 7th Part in the Honeymoon Flashback Series. I would like to finish sharing this whole journal that we wrote on our honeymoon in 2005 before we leave to start our new Puerto Rico life adventure this fall 2013. Go here for Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5, and Part 6.
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Today we got up around 9, hung out a  little and then went down to breakfast. Unfortunately we were a little late since we found out they closed breakfast at 10 and we got there around 10:30am. But they went ahead and served us. It was a good home-cooked style meal with fresh fruit for only about $8 for the two of us! And because we had been eating so much fried food here on this island, it was a much needed health booster.

Even though the US has an obesity problem, it seems that Puerto Rico has it even worse. I think it is for sure worse than Colorado which I believe is the leanest state. There is so much fried food everywhere, especially fried chicken, pollo frito!, places everywhere and many of the people look like they enjoy it a little too much!

Even the Chinese food places serve fried chicken instead of grilled chicken in the chicken and vegetable dishes, but the kicker was that they served it with both white rice AND French fries of all things which we thought was so weird. They also don’t have unsweetened iced tea. All the drinks are super sweet here. It’s also hard to get just a cup of iced tap water like we usually do when we eat-out in Colorado.

Anyhow, back to the trip. We spent some more time down at the thermal pool which is nice and relaxing. Then we packed up and headed out.

Today was a day of driving. We drove up the mountains, down the mountains, to the ocean and back again. We drove the ruta panoramica (Panoramic Route) and Highway 53, we took toll roads and back roads. We were definitely tourists taking lots of pictures everywhere we went.

plantation

We saw farmland -what looked like bananas or plantains and maybe coffee growing on the sides of steep green hills. There are some interesting plants and flowers on this side (eastern) of the island.

We went through Humacao and found a Chili’s very easily and were able to finally use our gift card! We also saw another lighthouse -we have made a little side game of trying to see and photograph all the lighthouses on the island.

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Finally we arrived here at the Ceiba Country Inn and are trying to rest -again for the second time. Our first room was infested with some sort of biting bugs. So the owners moved us into another bugless room -thank goodness! The owners are nice Americans from Rhode Island. They have adopted like 3 dogs, all former strays. Poor things. Dogs and cats run around stray all over the place here and the females seem to all be pregnant or nursing.

Ceiba
The view from the place we stayed in Ceiba

Well, off to Vieques tomorrow!

Oh, I forgot, on the day we traveled to Guanica, when we also stopped by the Guanica Dryland Forest, we went for a hike because we saw a sign for the old Fort Capron ruins. So we decided to walk the 5 kilometers it said it was from where we could park. We got REALLY hot though and Britton took off his shirt and gave it to me to wear on my head as a type of hat. Then we kept walking and walking and hiking and walking but still we didn’t see any ruins.

Spiky plant and hat
Watch out for those spikes!

Finally we decided to turn around about an hour later when we saw thunder clouds and lightning. We tried to hustle to avoid the rain and I had to watch my feet to avoid tripping over the rocks. So as I was looking down I ran smack into a thorny tree branch and poked my eye. My eyelid started bleeding but at least my eyes had been closed at the time of impact!

Termite hive
Termite hive?

We also saw a huge nest of some sort that we can only imagine must be a termite hive. Britton developed some blisters on his shoulders from the sun and sweat. By the end of the hike we were super happy to the see the car (with A/C and water) once more.

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Flashback to Puerto Rico: August 15-16, 2005

This is the 6th Part in the Honeymoon Flashback Series. I would like to finish sharing this whole journal that we wrote on our honeymoon in 2005 before we leave to start our new Puerto Rico life adventure this fall 2013. Go here for Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4 and Part 5.

The Vortex of Ponce

Well, we left Parguera and headed to Ponce. We stopped for more super healthy groceries (beer, cookies, nuts) and for some fast food because we were having a hard time picking somewhere good to eat. Because Britton was driving, he had to order in the drive thru…in Spanish. I tried to help him, but it was hard to transfer the information across the car all mumbled through the speaker, so we ended up having to drive up to the window and talk face to face. When we tried to leave, we apparently went the wrong way because a policeman drove up and told us to turn around. This was the first of many police stops this day.

Dryland Forest
Puerto Rican Dryland Forest with cacti and everything!

Britton was a little shook up, but we managed our way out. We took a long detour and saw the desert part of the island and drove around where we could almost see Gilligan’s Island that I thought had a pretty cool name. It is just a small island about 100 meters off from Guanica.

Then we drove into Ponce, the Pearl of the South. It is probably the biggest city in south Puerto Rico. We got a little lost trying to find downtown, but once there, it was as if it had a vortex that sucked us in and we couldn’t get out.

Parque de Bombas

We saw the Parque de Bombas, the awesome old red and black firehouse. We also saw the old church and we drove all the way up the hill to the mansion and cross that overlooks the whole city and you can see all the way to the ocean!

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The streets were all under construction so when we decided to leave downtown when it got dark, we got really turned around and didn’t know north from south. There were no mountains like in Colorado to guide us east or west. We drove around for a while and since it was getting dark we again decided to see a movie. When all you have is free time on vacation you realize how much time you actually have to spend! We were finally able to get in and see the movie, the Island! It was a little hard to find the theatre too, but we managed and it was a fun movie.

After the movie, it was late but not as late as the other night, so we started to look for a good place to sleep. We left the theatre but somehow ended up in the vortex that took us right back downtown by the firehouse. By now it was 12:30am and there was construction on almost all of the streets and a ton of one-ways or TRANSITOS. We would try to go one way, but either the construction blocked it or the one-ways prevented it. We accidently ended up going the wrong way down the TRANSITO and got pulled over by the police now for the second time this day.

The policemen were nice and understanding giving us tourist free-passes I think. But they didn’t speak very good English and so I at first tried to help Britton by speaking across him in the car. But the policeman insisted in trying to speak English and so I stopped trying. He didn’t know the difference or words in English between his right and left so when we tried to leave and follow his directions out we ended up RIGHT BACK in downtown Ponce!

The vortex had swirled on us again! Britton thought he was going south when we were actually going north. It got a little tense in the car. We were tired, hungry, nervous from being pulled over and utterly lost. So we were more than ready to escape Ponce! Britton tried to leave and again went down a road against traffic on a one-way, and was AGAIN pulled over by the police! The police are, to say the very least, friendly and forgiving and didn’t give us ticket for any of these mistakes. The other confusing thing about being pulled over was that we didn’t even know if we were being pulled over because they drive around with their lights on at all times!

Finally after sticking to the cardinal rule when lost of going in one direction (as much as we could with all the one ways and closed roads due to construction) we were able to get out of the vortex. We were so tired we just parked up on the side of a jungle mountain road. It was much easier to sleep with the coquis instead of the dogs barking, although it was a bit creepier and dark.

This morning we got up -and lost- again trying to find breakfast. We finally got turned around and visited Tibes Ceremonial Indian Center. It was nice to learn about the original indigenous people from the island.

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Re-created Taino style huts at the ceremonial village

Then we drove up to where we are now: the Coamo thermal springs. We are tired and we’ve just returned from a dip in the natural hot spring pool and are hanging out in the room watching Puerto Rican MTV.

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At the Coamo Hot Springs

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Flashback to Puerto Rico: August 12-14, 2005

This is the 5th Part in the Honeymoon Flashback Series. I would like to finish sharing this whole journal that we wrote on our honeymoon in 2005 before we leave to start our new Puerto Rico life adventure this fall 2013. Go here for Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, and Part 4.

The Mofongo/Mango Mishap and Great Hunt for Chili’s

Friday we decided to stay another night in Rincon; we took a long walk down the beach barefoot and ran into some rocks that we had to walk up or swim around. It was fun, but with Britton’s sunburn he was a little sore and had to wear a shirt. After a nap we went up to a surfer bar called Calypso. It was somewhat expensive but fun -a lot of gringos apparently have bought in Rincon -some surfers, some investors, some snow birds, some retirees.


Rincon Sunset
Beautiful Sunsets in Rincon!

We slept in late Saturday and checked out of Coconut Palms -we decided since had slept so late that we would make a late night out of Saturday. We drove into Mayaguez, one of the bigger cities on this west side. We looked in a tourist magazine and saw that there was a Chili’s restaurant and since we had received a Chili’s gift card as a wedding gift, we drove around and around and around looking for that darn Chili’s!

We got caught in a huge rainstorm as we were looking. The rain looked like it was peeing from the buildings, people were putting whatever they could on their heads from boxes to plastic bags and the begging people in the middle of the street ran for shelter.

Since it was raining so bad we couldn’t find Chili’s and instead decided to go see a movie. I wanted to see The Island (since we were on an island) but it didn’t start until later so we saw Deuce Bigalow European Gigalow with Spanish subtitles which was more interesting than the movie itself.

We left and kept an eye out for Chili’s and tried to stop for gas at a gas station. I had started to feel really sick to my stomach. Maybe it was the mofongos we had eaten or maybe a mango from an Econo grocery store, but the navigator (me) was out of commission. I didn’t know whether I had nausea, diarrhea or just a weird hunger, but I felt horrible.

We continued on with me just sitting miserably in the passenger seat and Britton went to another gas station because the previous gas station had been flooded with water. At the new gas station I told Britton I had to use the bathroom one way or another or both.

So I very sickly got out of the car and looked inside the station. I asked in Spanish for the bathroom but the guy behind the glass just strangely looked at me. So I went back to the car and before we could drive away I opened the door and puked it all out -mangos, mofongos and all.

I felt a little better but I knew it wasn’t over. So we went to a nearby Baskin-Robbins and shared a banana split and I spent some time in the bathroom.

The kids that worked in Baskin Robbins said Chili’s was at a mall by Wendy’s and Church’s Chicken, but by then we were so spent driving around in circles that we just left Mayaguez and drove on to Cabo Rojo. We took a country dirt road around to an old water tower. We saw a little birthday party in progress. Since we never did find Chili’s we just stopped at a Little Caesar’s pizza place. They have no sales taxes here which is pretty cool. (Editor’s note: PR instituted a sales tax not long after we visited in 2005.)

We decided to drive back to Mayaguez and found the mall AND Chili’s! The mall, apparentely, is the place to be on a Saturday night. Everyone was out and they had some cool stores too. But it was closing so we decided to see a late movie -again! Wedding Crashers at 12:10am. It got out at 2am so we drove off to some neighborhood and just slept in the car. Well, it saved us at least $75-$100 in hotel costs! The first place we parked to sleep we were busted by a security guard, but then we found a nice quiet neighborhood. It was pretty fun as we settled in to our dreams to sounds of chirping frogs and insects.

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Deserted Beach somewhere in western PR (photo taken from top of car)

We woke up at about 6am to rooster crows and dogs barking. And so we drove down to a deserted beach. I don’t know how we found this beach but we slept some more and then went for a swim. The water was so clear. After a while we got moving and found ourselves at the Salt Bay -Bahia Salinas- and another dirt road that led to a beach right by the Cabo Rojo Lighthouse/Faro. It was really cool -we swam again for about an hour and we checked out the huge pile of salt that Morton’s Salt Co collects.

 100_1864100_1866One of the most beautiful beaches and water we saw near a salt collection site

 

We then drove to Parguera where we are now. The dock area was really neat and we ate Pinchos which are meat kabobs with bread on the end and a really good Pina Colada. We are now at a little guest house where we actually had to wake up the owner (in the middle of the day) to get a room. Well, we are up to date now. Tomorrow off to Ponce and the south of Puerto Rico.

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Flashback to Puerto Rico: August 9, 2005

This is the 3rd Part in the Honeymoon Flashback Series.  I would like to finish sharing this whole journal that we wrote on our honeymoon in 2005 before we leave to start our new Puerto Rico life adventure this fall 2013. Go here for Part 1 and Part 2.

The Camuy Caverns

Day 3- Tuesday, August, 9, 2005

Another successful day. We woke up fairly early and had a swim at the pool outside our door. Then we showered and had breakfast on the veranda and were off down the crazy, curvy roads once again.

The ceremonial Indian site was temporarily closed, but there were some protestors trying to get recognition for the Taino Indians as an official tribe.

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In the Camuy Caves. Not too difficult if people are bringing in strollers! 🙂

We went a little further to the Camuy Caves. It was a little expensive for what it was which was not much and nothing compared with Carlsbad Carverns, but it was cool when it started to rain outside and we watched a waterfall start! We couldn’t leave the cave because it was so rainy.  Then we heard someone yell, “Las piedras estan cayendo!” -“Rocks are falling!” So they rushed us back onto the trolley where a rock had just hit.

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Some cool, colored and iridescent formations

It was a rainy drive and when we arrived back here we napped in a hammock listening to the rain. Then we talked with Steven, the owner of this place for a while and had a nice dinner.

To be continued….

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